ElgaKoster Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I have been busy working on this table from the MET museum for a while.http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/3172From the research I have done the two legs on the curve of the table is tapered on the back and the two side faces, I have cut legs with two tapers before on two adjoining faces using a jig in my table saw from instructions in the Harry Smith miniature making book furniture which was pretty straight forward. I am not so sure however how to do it on three faces, the full scale instructions I have looked at isn't much help. I have an idea but thought I would ask here first.Also the two legs on each end of the table normally has the tapers on two adjoining faces, but I am wondering how that would look on a leg like this with such a pointy inlay or would they have changed the inlay to be more centered on the the leg with the taper on only one side, after they cut the taper?...too late for me to change this though as I have already done the inlay, a simplified version of the real table's inlay. I drew a pencil line where it is supposed to taper on the end legs. Or would it be better to cut all four legs with the tapers on three faces, maybe not historically correct but visually better looking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wm. R. Robertson Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I make a shim that sits in the jig under the leg stock to be cut. The shim is half the angle and used only for the sides..... Does this make sense?Which machine are you using? I would do it on a drill press or a mill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElgaKoster Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Yes, it does make sense and I did think of using the drill press. Thanks, now I know I was thinking in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elizabeth Gazmuri Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi Elga,http://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/fwnpdf/011180058.pdfThis is a good article for you. I think you once told me you had access to Fine Woodworking, but if you do not I think you would find the articles there interesting and helpful. I agree with your assessment that the two rear legs are tapered on the two inside adjoining faces, and the center two are tapered on all but the front face. I would cut the adjoining tapers either using a jig and the drill press or mill, or on the saw with a jig, the legs that have three sides tapered will require a separate jig for the third side, and would probably be cut easiest on the drill press or mill.As for the second part of your question. I would taper the front two legs on the three sides, then the back only of the two side legs, shade with pencil what would be your second taper cut on those legs and hold them up in a semicircle to see the visual effect of only two tapers. I think you might be surprised that it appears fine, even with your inlay. The photo of the original show pointy inlay, appear well proportioned, and we're probably tapered in the afore mentioned traditional way. Those legs play tricks with your eyes.Beautiful piece by the way, as is you chair. I will really miss seeing you in Castine this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElgaKoster Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 Guess what Elizabeth, I used this table for the basic plan for my miniature table :-) but when you come to the legs he doesn't give a lot of detail on how to cut or do the inlay for that matter. And you remember right, I do have access, I think I have downloaded just about all their period furniture plans, it is a really great site for furniture makers.And thank you for answering the second question too, the chair, guess you saw it on FaceBook, will post about it here probably later this week. Going to miss seeing you too, hopefully next year I will make it to Castine again, it will depend on the class offerings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josje Veenenbos Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Have to read all this when I have more time, but I will be doing a few tapered legs on a table I have to make later this year. So good subject for me :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miraclechicken Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 yeah me too I'll read when I have more time, and what I really mean by that is I'm sleepy! I got up early(for me) to do this test...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElgaKoster Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 It has been months since I asked this question, I ended up making a jig to cut all the tapers on my drill press. The tables are almost done, here is how the legs turned out, the woods used are mopani, maple and blackwood. The leg on the left side of the table is a swing leg as this table will have a rectangular drop leaf, two tables pushed together will make a dining table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hudson Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 So! How do you cut flat sided tapers on a drill press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WeekendMiniaturist Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I'll guess that you use a router bit instead of a drill bit, like an overhead pin router, and a jig... for the tapered legs. I'm looking forward to the answer... Tamra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElgaKoster Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Pin routing with a straight cutter, the jig has the correct angle. Exactly the same technique that I use for making my cabriole legs.http://www.fineminiaturesforum.com/index.php?/topic/256-making-queen-anne-cabriole-legs-with-a-footpad/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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