Moderator1 Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Moderators Note: The Moderator created this thread using photos and text from Deb Mackie's post in a section of the forum that will be changed and we didn't want to loose this information. Basketweave tooling pattern on rear skirt of saddle with corner plate placement Using a tiny pounce wheel to simulate stitching on leather saddle pieces Saddle pieces dyed, cut and ready for assembly Assembly of the leather pieces--this particular saddle is easiest to assemble on the horse. Finished saddle in place on 1:12 Scale model Horse Finished 1:12 Scale western saddle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debora Beijerbacht Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 That is soo cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catherine Ronan Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 It is a beautiful saddle. I love the silver on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wm. R. Robertson Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 A couple questions..... Is your metal hardware photo etched or stamped out? What kind of metal? Do you do anything to soften the leather before tooling it?Thanks, those look just great and I am so glad you posted some progress pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteHorseStudio Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 The metal hardware is photo etched. It's nickel plated brass, from www.riorondo.com, a company that specializes in supplies for the model horse hobby. They also sell some cast sets, and I think they used to have some silver stuff, but the photo etched stuff actually looks nicer. The leather is "cased" (moistened slightly with water) before tooling. It's usually pretty stiff once it dries, and sometimes I wet it again afterwards to shape it so it appears to hang properly. There are oils and other softeners that can be used after tooling, but I usually just re-wet it and then fasten it with rubber bands and/or string to shape it to the horse model or stand it will be displayed on.Hope that answers your questions!A couple questions..... Is your metal hardware photo etched or stamped out? What kind of metal? Do you do anything to soften the leather before tooling it?Thanks, those look just great and I am so glad you posted some progress pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hudson Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Really great leather work Deb. The nicest I have seen in a long while. What leather are you using? Do you have to skive it down in thickness? I used to have requests for horses to go with my carriage commissions. First horses were re-make horses with hair made by Cheryl Abelson. Later (and more recently) I have had Denise Pritchett (D-Leprechaun) re-make my horses and Linda Spiesschart (Niki) made the leather work for me. She also made wonderful saddles which I had no problem selling at shows. Linda quit and I ended up making my own harness. Fun but very tedious for me. I had problems finding thin enough, tool-able leather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteHorseStudio Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Thanks Bill. I use veg-tanned tooling leather, usually 2-3 oz in weight. I do the tooling, then skive it down to the thickness I want. It tends to be stiffer than most of the thin finished leather that's available, but it has to be to accept the tooling.I do horses too, but only have one finished model in my studio right now--all my time has been going to getting ready for teaching at Castine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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