Catherine Ronan Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 These are two cottage lanterns I really love. I like different things about each of them. The plan is to combine those different things into a !: 12 scale version. I am sure I can fabricate most of the parts. The only problem I can foresee is the cone shape on top. The reason is once I start to form/stretch the flared edge in photo # 1 the cones the solder seam is going to break. For the bottom piece, I can flair it and ruffle the edge using seamless tubing. So that piece won't be a problem Any forming ideas from fellow metal workers would be appreciated. I really do not want to have to make that top cone it in wax and cast it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElgaKoster Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Ooh, they are really nice Catherine, looking forward to see how you combine this into a miniature, think I have an idea, will have to wait and see if we liked the same elements from the two originals :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wm. R. Robertson Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 What kind of metal, how thick and what kind of solder were you planing on using? With the right stuff I don't see it being too big of a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hudson Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I suggest you draw up a card stock stretch out pattern first to test and fit. For the joint use the lap joint I show in my tutorial, it is very strong. Fill the outer side of the joint with solder and file down flush. Use a mandrel to round off the top of the cone. I still use 50-50 solder. It has lead in it but the amount for an art piece is minuscule and I don't think a child would be allowed to put it in its mouth. The lead-tin solder can be aged or darkened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catherine Ronan Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 I haven't started working on this yet so I am open to using any non-ferrous metal or the K&S "TIN". I will read your tutorial on lap joints Bill. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wm. R. Robertson Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I would use stay-Brite solder, it is a lot stronger than the standard lead solders and it will flow on tin wonderfully. It might not darker chemically if that is what you were thinking... You'll have to experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catherine Ronan Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thank you Bill. I used Stay-Brite on the watering can and the Flower buckets. It's great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wm. R. Robertson Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 You know, in thinking about this I think I would cold form the cone with the flared bottom.... Since you can't stretch metal it is going to leave a pie shaped opening...... Just cut a piece of tin that shaped and solder it all together at the same time... I would leave it extra long at the bottom to help hold and jig it up for soldering, then trim off even with the bottom..... And since it is in the back side nobody is going to see the seam!Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catherine Ronan Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 That is just what I was looking for. Someone that has a fresh eye and idea about the problem. Thank you Bill, that will work and it is a great way to resolve the problem. I LOVE the fact I now have people to brain storm with. I have never had that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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