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New 1/12th-Scale House


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This colour scheme may be even better...599c87ae545c1_frontwall10f.thumb.jpg.e180aa9333f92f7d8a566dcc63f86854.jpg

...and flat, at least to the degree of sheen of the stucco; dry and dusty; no satin or semi-gloss, and certainly not gloss.  Satin will do for the cream trim, perhaps; at most.

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The first floor is cut out... I don't have a table saw, but I do have an English-made(a bit odd, that) Makita® jigsaw, and their finest model some ten years ago or so when I purchased it...

Hello all, First, thank you for your patience, as this project is going to take quite some time, as I intend to electrify it, à la round-wire; not to mention the various permanent fixtures to be

This is going to be fun to watch a mini house build...I'll be patient!  You must have excellent control of that makita; I would have to use an edge guide so I do not wander...

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WeekendMiniaturist

Yes, I like the concept of a series of room boxes that become a house.  I am not sure why a modular approach is not used more frequently, it certainly enables one to focus on one room at a time, and you have much easier access for finishing.  I have two friends who have adopted this approach to their structure builds... I  admire their tenacity, but for me I think it is easier to do the wiring if I have a complete structure... but they have the ability to remove a room and display it independently of moving a house to display.

The spririt of a craftsperson has been warring in my brain as I attempt to improve my machining abilities...  I was thinking of Craftsman that described the skills of the builder, vs. Craftsman style architecture - I apologize for my brain running off on a tangent.  When one is talking about Craftsman Style architecture the platters in my brain start skipping to the next section, and  I think of the American Foursquare, Bungalows and of course Greene & Greene... We have a lot of Foursquare and Bungalows in our area....and I have a 1/12th Scale Miniature Foursquare in my collection that was based upon Sears Mail order houses.

 

 

 

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Oh, yes, we lived in at least one if not two 1920s craftsman bungalows in Midtown Memphis, and before the Queen Anne.  But craftsmen also built two-story homes as well.  Here's one from Oregon, and with a lone transom window to boot, at far right...

d578ba875c21f5906a65b9756add56d3--crafts

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Incidentally, I was going to make just a single room-box, and as a backdrop for my art, but since the "Beacon Hill" was damaged beyond repair or interest, I decided on several rooms this time around for which I would create miniatures: a living room, a kitchen/dining area, a bedroom, and a bath, but scratch-built.  I had altered the living room of said kit, and to have it at its largest possible...

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I also did away with the staircases and various trims.  I bashed it until it couldn't be bashed any more.

The more I had looked over the current Greenleaf and RGT kits before deciding to build one from the ground up, the more determined I became to do that very thing: build my own.  By the by, from what I've seen online, Dura-Craft has but gone the way of the Dodo.

Incidentally, I'm going to explore lighting up this current build with 3mm, 3V LED lights, and bypass Cir-Kit Concepts offerings.  I think I can make my own sockets of wood, plastic and brass.

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The 1.25" #8 exterior screws have been ideal for attaching the plywood to lumber, an example shown on the right...

screws2.jpg.852af227e22e273f1434794e7ce21c6c.jpg

However, when attaching a plywood face to an edge of same, I knew I would need screws that were somewhat slimmer.  I happily discovered a box of #6 phosphate-coated drywall screws, at Lowe's, an example there on the left.  I had also looked at the solid-brass, but they were 1.5" in length, and too long in my opinion; and besides, they'll never be seen.

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I'm down to the last third of the 4' x 8' sheet of plywood.  I've already drawn and cut out the second floor, yet the staircase opening has not been cut, yet.  This is what I have left, and just enough for the roof, and a remake of the first side wall with its wavy, wonky cut-outs.  The large window for the living room will be replaced with a transom, and with a suitable heraldic theme in stained-glass; the octagon at the front as well...

599f60d11dcd4_sidewall3.thumb.jpg.992c11504f6a068474f8ea6f38be71d2.jpg

I have more than enough scrap from the other two-thirds, and for the inner partitions.

I might plant a 1' deep x 4' wide x 7' tall bookcase under the transom in the living room, incidentally.

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The new fireplace openings; both are now smaller in size, and with what will be raised hearths...

fireplaces.jpg.21ffbd0af3ec28877fdaaf4270f04282.jpg

The one for the bedroom is now truly petite in size, the opening 2.25" square; the living room: 2.5" square.

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The new side wall is cut, at left, with the old wall at right; the cut-outs much neater, and improved in scale I think...

comparison.thumb.jpg.e6ef79bfb9bf513da17d95d1f25f18d8.jpg

The new side wall is the one to be attached next.

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Success...

shell.jpg.5b1dfff686a84f6aa707655c98b89a72.jpg

The slimmer drywall screws were perfect for joining the plywood edges...

shell2.jpg.ce062c420389d7a70f7613b10ded517c.jpg

It's fitting together nicely, and to my satisfaction, but it is slightly off here and there, and guess what...

...just like a real two-story house built in the 1920s, the initial settling having occurred well before WWII, and exacerbated by the winds and ground movements over the ensuing decades ever since.  As a result, installing the second floor should prove to be a blast, rather than a cinch.  Next, the inner partition for the ground floor, and one only, thankfully...

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

Based upon my experience,  to assemble a structure with 3 walls, I would assemble all at once, and use clamps and the largest construction square for the project that i have in the shop to help me keep it square... and a 2nd pair of hands can be helpful too.  The 4th wall is probably the most challenging.  is the missing wall the back of the structure or the front of the structure?  I tried something different, at least from the instructions and used dowel pins to assemble my RGT kit.  The dowels enabled me to see the structure in an semi-assembled state without gluing, so I could make modifications.

 

 

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If you're referring to the other side wall, it hasn't been attached yet.

Little walls, with a little opening, makes for magic...

partition.jpg.adadcd680620caa5512d127d068a7bf4.jpg

Installation of the ground-floor partition prior will help to ensure that the second floor is level, particularly in that immediate area, if I decide to include a staircase...

I'm not 100% sold on that yet.

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Ahhh, there's nothing like a 15' x 18' living room in miniature...

59a3cc0c4f5ff_livingroom.jpg.8f42826d79c7762d2946ea960a8afed8.jpg

No, it's not bowed everywhere like that; the camera again.  The partition is now glued and screwed in place.  The second floor will go in next, once I decide upon the staircase, whether yea or nay.

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WeekendMiniaturist

Dear Miniature Studio...I'm having structure build withdrawal symptoms...  how is it going?  Is it a Nay or Yea on the staircase?  

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I've pretty much decided to go for a staircase, but I've had to put it on hold for a bit due to real-life events.  You know, that thing called "real life".  Lol. 

Harvey had come through our area, and knocked our power out for 28 hours.  Whilst it had rained a considerable amount, and the winds roared, we had no major or even minor problems afterwards, not at all.  We were most fortunate.

I'll get around to it...

round-tuit.jpg

Incidentally, I was wondering when you were going to inquire as to the progress.  Installing the second floor is going to be the most difficult of steps...

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