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New 1/12th-Scale House
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WeekendMiniaturist    200
WeekendMiniaturist

Hmmm, in theory, I like the ogee and the filet profile, bottom right hand corner, but I would flip it upside down and now round over the top for my stair treads.  But the simple roundover, of the top and the bottom also works for me.   You are making great progress....   Did you find the molding at Home Depot?  I have looked at all of their moldings and visit the inventory periodically to keep it fresh in my head, to see what I can harvest.  I also have the Menard's molding supplier, House of Fara, in our next West county that I can visit their molding outlet, and I have Nickell Moulding in the neighboring county to the East; moldings are prolific here.

;)  Yes, the experience of needing to add the 1/2" is the story of my dream build... that is why I am making the staircase first...

I'm off to search and learn about species "movingui"....

 

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

I found some nice molding for the ceiling trim for the living room, bedroom and hall, of the dollhouse, and in HD's mini-trim section, but nothing really small enough for enhancing the staircase, or the aspects thereof.

Movingui is what I came across in my search for satinwood, many years ago, the former a viable substitute for the latter, as the colours and patterns are similar, but not in this instance...

5992843d82e90_woodsampling.jpg.89698981618908cec884d0533f5509a3.jpg

L-R: Mottled-mahogany, movingui, and East Indian satinwood; the satinwood's pattern is too large for miniatures however, but for solids it's great.  The surface of the satinwood appears as though it's sprinkled with very finely ground glass; it shimmers in its own right.  The movingui there in the image was acquired over 23 years ago.  I still have a good bit of it left, but not as much as that would seem to imply.  All three will be used in future, within this miniature and that.

I get all of my woods online, and most everything else.

I'll try to refrain from facing the risers with the mottled-mahogany, but I may not be able to resist.  Incidentally, within that molding image, the ogee style is upside-down in relation to the way the tread edges will appear, and as I will make them.  After all, no one will actually be treading upon them.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

The original width of the bedroom has been restored, and the octagon re-centered, but the octagon is a little bit larger and is positioned a little bit lower, the bottom of the opening 5" from the floor.  I plan on making the window of faux stained-glass...

59928c622b2a3_frontwall3.thumb.jpg.e5f7064e9776acb875671137cbcc67ce.jpg

It's now ready for cutting out the openings.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

Using only a hole-saw and a jigsaw(or sabre-saw), the octagon is now cut and roughed out, and to be fine-tuned with a sanding slat and perhaps a few diamond files...

octagon2.jpg.5da863f14fb1a963f3d56f1b83c3e04d.jpg

It's a little off here and there, but the sandpaper and files will right it, and close enough. 

I realise that some, if not most, drill a round hole slightly larger and insert a ready-made, but I want it to reflect its having been hand-made; as though the builder had hired an out-of-work carpenter with hungry mouths to feed, and during the 1920s.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

I took the jigsaw to the octagon one last time, and using my eye I improved it a bit further, and to the extent of what said tool is capable...

octagon3.jpg.7efe2fa1ceef881f0293d3a1d15d8578.jpg

The betterment is difficult to discern, granted.

The front wall's various shapes are now cut out...

599619c5008ff_frontwall4.jpg.a40cb6e7ca14af549bd8453ca170330d.jpg

The front wall will be attached first, sometime today, after test-fitting to ensure squareness.  The side walls will then be matched to it.

 

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

In so far as a staircase, a standard step rise of 6.75" has been in effect all along within the drafts, but a tread-depth of 10"+ is not possible for this house.  I configured a 9" depth in the last draft, but that was a bit much, too.  I've finally decided on an 8" tread-depth...

59961da1528e9_staircasetemplate-final.thumb.jpg.0bb7136c8fb3e0fff9b642e5d8d43b87.jpg

The headroom is now realistic as one ascends, and I'm able to move the kitchen/dining-area opening further away from the front door, lest the Lilliputians collide with one another going in and out.  The foundation, showing the area that will be occupied by the staircase...

staircase.jpg.5ffde06eecdbd5053e7874cc01936bc7.jpg

The lower flight will enclose the back opening of the living room somewhat; balancing; and cozy, but not too cozy; just right.  I will have the option of attaching the lower flight to where its ground-step will front at the dotted line.  I'd rather that, but no matter at either mark.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

The double-window for the dining area at the front wall will be this type of bay, and just a simple extension of same...

c6004b0404c45a0bd9ba17113d11fd58--kitche

 

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

In the small world, monoliths, and of solid mahogany...

monoliths.jpg.69d29d2769195c516783223222d61b4e.jpg

They've been marked with graphite.  Hmm, for what might they be...

...?

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

I had almost forgotten and neglected the foundation...

foundation.thumb.jpg.905df6799725e149bc3efbb3b7de19c0.jpg

None of those components have been attached quite yet.  I included wire-routing holes in the brace.  If never used, they'll be decorative nonetheless, if one chances to upend the house and its contents for a look-see.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

The exposed surfaces, and tips all around, of the legs have been sanded down and finished off with #0000 steel wool...

5997926db4d50_foundationleg.jpg.a8273a1ba78464db3036d4e0cdaa9d0b.jpg

I can't wait until the finish hits it.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

The last two legs are now glued and screwed in place. All mating surfaces were roughened up with a knife, a criss-cross pattern, and before applying the glue...

5997be22cbbfd_foundationleg2.jpg.21554cf51351e3d9affbc39c59d5c237.jpg

I may go through the tops of the legs with screws from the top of the floor.  Glue-blocks will also be applied to each leg.

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Miniature Studio    8
Miniature Studio

After the glue had set I placed the foundation on a table, and with no rocking back and forth in the slightest I'm happy to report...

5997e1550c151_foundationlegs.jpg.2cf7a5bfc23209bc42716fca587f0772.jpg

5997e1df55306_foundationlegs2.jpg.f0087c1e59d12fb97d35aa0ee1adc1ac.jpg

The foundation, and the house eventually, sits no more than 1/2" off the surface, and so as not to dispel the illusion too terribly much.  In a way, it will be like a fine furnishing in its own right.  Now to attach the long brace, and the glue-blocks here and there, on the underside.

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WeekendMiniaturist    200
WeekendMiniaturist

I had not considered legs for the foundation; when I kit bashed my RGT Newport and made the foundation larger to add my octagon porch, we made a plywood sandwich that is flush with the table.  I like the legs, and the space between, as it is easier to pick up the house, when it gives a little space for your fingers.  I also like your stair applique that you showed us.   Does the reduced size and design work with your revised stair's rise and run?  Or can you just stretch / edit the image in software to work with your plans?  

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