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Bill Hudson

Small metal strong box.

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Bill Hudson

I found the Picture of this little strong box on the internet. I am using it as an inspiration for a metal strong box. Not having any measurements I am using the measurements Bob McGinnis sent me of a little lock box . At this point I am not sure how much decorative detail I can do.  Perhaps I can make a couple of punches for that. I made wood former which the box body is formed around.  The forms are left in the box to hold its shape while I fit the upper and lower bands to the body.  

 

 

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miraclechicken

Another exciting project---

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Bill Hudson

 Elga found more pictures and measurements on the box I am using as a pattern so I have revamped the project to reflect the new measurements. The wood block reflects the new measurements. I tried to use the heavier steel for the box but it is taxing my shear. I can get buy with some miner pieces but the larger pieces of the box are too hard on it so I will go back to my tin for the box body.

 

 

 

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ElgaKoster

I am looking forward to seeing how this one is going to look when done...it is a great piece!

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Bill Hudson

 I developed a drawing over the picture of the box to find the measurements of the bands  around the top and bottom of the box and other parts of the box. This is a drawing system I developed to take measurements from photos known one or two measurements.

In the studio an in the garage worked worked trying to cut narrow strips for the banding around the top and bottom of the box.  I can not cut accurate narrow steps of the heavy metal in my shear so I made a fixture to hold the strips while I file them down to width.

 

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ElgaKoster

Nice fixture Bill, I made one for 3mm wide brass strips after you told me about this in another thread quite some time ago and it works great.

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Bill Hudson

Remaking my formers for the little strong box. I checked my measurements against the drawing and found out I had not allowed for the box sides and band thickness. Had to cut down the size of the formers. The boxes will be noticeably smaller now.

 

The metal former is to aid in squaring up and last minute fitting or the box body. The wood one is for holding the box sides while I solder them at the joints on the ends. The joints will be covered by end plates where the handles go. I also filed down a couple of bands. Hopefully I can now get in to making boxes now. At this point I don't feel I want to make very ming of these.

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

It sounds like a very limited production run of this box...and I am enjoying the opportunity to learn from afar away.

 

The bands look so perfectly straight.  While I can imagine filing by hand, I cannot imagine getting such "straight" results.  If I want a straight strip of wood, I would use a table saw.  I think that I understand that using the jig that holds the strips o metal, after they are sheared helps you file the straight edge.

 

Tamra

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Bill Hudson

Tamra,  if it had more power my Preac would be ideal for sawing the bands.  I could also epoxy the metal to a sacrifice board and use my saw arbor in my mill.  I may resort to that as cutting the narrow metal strips put a strain on my shear my shear.

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Bill Hudson

The new size is noticeable.  The large dimensions are for a lock box which I might build some day when I figure out a lock for it.

 

 

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Bill Hudson

I had a a lucky break, I found out the width of my vice jaw is exactly the length of the box shell. That really sped up bending them up.

 

 

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I got carried way making bodies for the little strong box.  

 

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Bill Hudson

 A little progress after holidays interruptions.  It is beginning to take on that strong box look. Nothing is fitted yet, just kind of stacked together for now.

 

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ElgaKoster

Looking great Bill! I like it a lot!

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miraclechicken

Getting carried away,. that's a good thing :)

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Bill Hudson

Back on the metal strong box after a few days break.  I redesigned the top and lid.  Am using brass for the hinges.  The top is just held on the box held by gravity.  

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

Beautiful hinges... when I grow up I want to make hinges on demand... :D.

 

I see some red metal-makers /pattern-assistance paint... does it remove with standard paint thinner? Is there anything we should know about using paint thinner on tin or aluminum?  I am assuming no harm using paint thinner on steel -- well pehaps no paint thinner if something has a powder coat finish.

 

I look forward to seeing the handles on the sides when you get to them.  I just purchased some hardware (new old stock) from my local miniature store and it is some really beautiful cast hardware - I consider the hardware for a decorative object  as the equivalent of the accessories to my wardrobe.

 

Tamra

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Bill Hudson

Tamra, see the tin tutorial for information on the dye.

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Bill Hudson

I'm still playing around with the hinge design and have not started even thinking about the handles. My brain would probably explode if I think about too many design things at once.   :rolleyes:

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Mesouth

I think that has happened to me several times! Luckily, I seem to heal!

Martha

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Bill Hudson

Finally some noticeable progress on the small metal strong box prototype.  Lots of fiddling to this point.  Lots of  failures to this point too. The lid has a nice heavy feel and sound when it is being closed. This project,being heavier metal than I am used to is pushing me and my equipment to near maximums.

 

The hinges have been my biggest bugs boo so far but I have figures a way to hold all together for silver soldering.  I bind the tubing used for hinges in place and make a final adjustment then silver solder the tube on.

 

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ElgaKoster

Looking good Bill! Silver soldering is something I still need a lot of practice on or different flux maybe...

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WeekendMiniaturist

Oh, that is a lovely metal strong box.  I am interested in what can I put in it... Oh hinges... I like hinges.  Looks like you used some ordinary soft brass colored wire, bent the wire against the tube to help hold everything together for soldering.  I think that you soldiered two hinges to the box?  and two hinges to the lid.  You needed the wire in place to hold the hinges to the correct position.  and the larger tube around the wire is used to space the hinges.  I hope I understand this properly from your photographs.

 

I usually have to do something at least 3 times when I'm scratch building to figure out how to improve the process and make the miniature presentable, so I just expect that I will have multiple attempts in/out of the classroom, in order to get it right.

 

I appreciate that you posted that you had multiple attempts.

 

Wonderful results Bill!

 

Tamra

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Bill Hudson

Elga and Tamra,

 

Check the Tinware tutorial.  I have tried to answer your questions there. 

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