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WeekendMiniaturist

Table Saw Options

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WeekendMiniaturist

Rick, welcome to the forum; I hope you got your table saw issues resolved.  I have a preac and the Micro-Mark tilting arbor table saw, but really like the extended table option that your purchased and saw it on another forum (https://modelshipworld.com)  Other than the issues you indicated in your post on 5/19, are you happy with the Byrnes saw?

The preac is soooo smooth and accurate, but the accessories and the larger table would be great options for the scale modeler.

 

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

I emailed Byrnes company today and the extended table is 10" x 18" and the cost is $175 add-on, and of course a special order.  I wonder if I can make a new table for my preac or a better fence for the micro-mark tilting arbor saw.

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WeekendMiniaturist

Back to the table saw... 

Dear Husband cut some 1.25" thick beautiful flecked cherry into 1/8" strips of wood for me... The board was 43" long, so today I cut them with a normal sized miter saw 3 at a time to 19.5" and the remainder will be used for a room that is 22" wide... The Thorne Room that I am working on - (see Guild Study Program thread) is 19-1/4" x 19" according to the Chicago Art Institute   website.  Once I get the strips glued - I'm not doing a herringbone floor that isn't lasered with my saw skills - this isn't my 3rd hand laid floor and I accept my limitations; I consider herringbone to be advanced...

I had him cut 1/8" as he will take it to work and use their sanders to bring it down to correct thickness of floors.

So the table saw - I started using my preac and after sawing about 5" it isn't feeling very comfortable to continue so I stopped.  I really think I need a larger outfeed table.

What am I doing wrong that I am not comfortable doing this?  Obviously I can cut them to smaller lengths, but still the longer length then I think I have a greater chance of sawing straight. I like the fence on the preac better than my Micro Mark Tilting Arbor saw.

I'm thinking about switching to the Micromark and setting up my featherboard accessories for the interim... I've got the 24 tooth carbide tip saw blade on my micro-mark.

Has anyone made a taller fence for the preac? 

Has anyone set up a featherboard for the preac? 

Has anyone made a larger table for the preac? 

Thanks!

 

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MissyBoling

I used the Byrnes saw which is only an inch bigger from blade to table edge to install real life engineered hardwood in my living, dining, entry hall area. Those pieces were 3” x 48” x 1/4” thick. I was especially careful to press down as I cut to be sure the wood was in contact with the table, but had no difficulties until I tried to cut mitered ends around the corner fireplace. That was trickier, but I got it done. You should be fine with the preach for these strips. It’s sturdy and accurate. 

I reread your post and just realized it sounds like you’re ripping instead of crosscutting. I think shorter lengths will give you greater accuracy and look more realistic. I have to use a good sharp blade to get accuracy on long strips with both my Preac and my Byrnes. I get very poor accuracy with the MicroMark tilting arbor saw no matter how I set it up.

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WeekendMiniaturist

I ordered some 3/8" thickness aluminum today and will try and make a larger table extension for the preac.   This should be an interesting experiment.

There are some pre-drilled holes - I wonder if there was a featherboard attachment for the preac - I will have to find my accessories.... for both saws and see how the featherboard attachment works on the micro-mark tilting arbor and then will see if I can make one for the preac.  The preac's fence needs to be taller for 1/8" thick boards...  I will see what I can find while waiting for my 6061 aluminum to arrive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

Elga, this is great info... and not to get over confident on my part, but I wonder if I should use this on my life size portable contractor table saw... it might be a lot easier to cut the boards using this accessory on this saw as the bed is much longer.  I'm definitely feeling kickback using my micro mark because my boards are so long.

Of course I already placed an order earlier today at Amazon for a computer component I needed to replace... I will review this accessory with husband tomorrow!  I looked quickly but couldn't find the measurements of the tool; I think this tool is larger then the entire top of the preac saw.  I'm getting a fine cut with the preac... no issues with ripping boards with this blade for finish... just an issue with this way too small top.

I have this additional blade that I can use on my micromark saw.  This would be similar?

https://www.micromark.com/40-Tooth-Carbide-Tip-Saw-Blade-3-1-4-Inch-Dia-10-mm-hole

The micromark must be somewhere in the magic basement - I think my saw is hiding from me in a box or a drawer somewhere?    (I think I hurt the saw's feelings when I was thinking that the fence needs to be replaced and we haven't talked to each other for a few years now.)   I've been using the preac. and that saw never leaves my sight.    I see my drill press, my benchtop bandsaw... but no micromark saw!  I need to model more frequently so I can keep track of my tools!  It is definitely not in the workshop and not on my shelf with my lathe stuff....

 

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ElgaKoster

Tamra, the 40 tooth blade should work well too. I am super careful when I do long rip cuts, it feels like one can lose control quickly, definitely not my favorite thing to do on a tablesaw.

I hope you find your saw quickly, I dream of having more than one. 

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Mesouth

Tamra, you should definitely use the grr-ripper on your life size saw. When ripping a longer length on my Proxxon or on a full size router table, I use 2 of them in a leap-frog fashion. I really like this tool. So much safer! And you can get a 1/8” add on for thin rips.

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karincorbin
On 1/7/2020 at 7:37 PM, WeekendMiniaturist said:

Elga, this is great info... and not to get over confident on my part, but I wonder if I should use this on my life size portable contractor table saw... it might be a lot easier to cut the boards using this accessory on this saw as the bed is much longer.  I'm definitely feeling kickback using my micro mark because my boards are so long.

Of course I already placed an order earlier today at Amazon for a computer component I needed to replace... I will review this accessory with husband tomorrow!  I looked quickly but couldn't find the measurements of the tool; I think this tool is larger then the entire top of the preac saw.  I'm getting a fine cut with the preac... no issues with ripping boards with this blade for finish... just an issue with this way too small top.

I have this additional blade that I can use on my micromark saw.  This would be similar?

https://www.micromark.com/40-Tooth-Carbide-Tip-Saw-Blade-3-1-4-Inch-Dia-10-mm-hole

The micromark must be somewhere in the magic basement - I think my saw is hiding from me in a box or a drawer somewhere?    (I think I hurt the saw's feelings when I was thinking that the fence needs to be replaced and we haven't talked to each other for a few years now.)   I've been using the preac. and that saw never leaves my sight.    I see my drill press, my benchtop bandsaw... but no micromark saw!  I need to model more frequently so I can keep track of my tools!  It is definitely not in the workshop and not on my shelf with my lathe stuff....

 

 Kickback happens when the gap between the blade and the fence is narrower at the rear than at the front. They are fussy little saws, it does not take much to have the fence get out alignment and no longer be parallel to the blade. When you notice some kickback get out your accurate measuring tools and check it then adjust the fence back to parallel. Maybe one of these days I will get back to posting on my blog. Years ago I did a whole posting on how to fix and tune up the vintage Dremel 4 inch tablesaws.  I also did a posting on fixing a Proxxon tablesaw where the blade was out of alignment with the miter slots on the table. There is no built in way to make that adjustment so I had to slot the hole in the casting for the mounting bolt to allow it to move just  enough to put it into alignment.  Having spent a lot of time tuning up full size saws I understand about the importance of fences and blades being in true parallel. It can be frustrating and tedious to get it just right but it is essential that you do so if you want accurate cuts from a saw.

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