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Bill Hudson

Chinese Cart

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Bill Hudson

Several months ago I started construction on a Chinese Cart using photos, measurements furnished by Brian Simpson of England. Since I only have a Sherline lathe and mill (too small to make the wheels) I had to make some adaptions which will show up later in this topic. Hope you enjoy and of sure I would appreciate comments along the way. They keep my creative juices flowing. A few years ago I started loosing the feeling in my feet and my knees are bone on bone with no possible replacement of the joints. I had to give up driving and am mostly home bound. To topic off I also am developing hand tremors. (PLEASE I do not want sympathy remarks, I don't want or need them)  Although the tremors have interfered with my accuracy and quality (as I see it) I am not letting it stop me from building. So enough of that.  Lets get on with the build. 

CC copy.jpg

Chinese cart 2.jpg

wheel.jpg

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Bill Hudson

 

I tried to post these photos in order but the site chose its on way. 

Starting on the frame. Used white oak for the main wood. The frame pols are mostly square so they were sawn to size then tapered on the end to accept the metal tips .  The frames were measured out for the mortices then mounted on my  Sherline mill with a sacrifice piece of wood on the bottom.  Then each mortice was drilled through.  The the mortices were cut using miniature gouges. The cross pieces were tenoned to fit the mortices.                                                                                                          frame1.jpg.fb54e5c31eaf6b6207af386d43ec0122.jpg   1765136221_frame1(1).jpg.d271329c960e65b6acca0aa66d201632.jpg547052881_frame1.2.jpg.6cea01153fd025eeb76f9e6f79b78858.jpg175216650_frame1.3.jpg.c093a40d0b8bde7ac22e54c7397f824b.jpg   1088094996_frame1.4.jpg.8cffcd284bb3deecba5a303403edd191.jpgplans.jpg.5217488a6db24e01245c5e2a4a171a7a.jpg

build - 1 (8).jpg

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Bill Hudson

N

 

 

 

 

 

698588982_cart-1copy.jpg.ff2b08435ecbaae00b72026d8aafd52f.jpg

 

        Next comes the wheels

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ElgaKoster

I am glad you are posting it here Bill, I have enjoyed seeing it on Facebook but I think I have missed some of your posts on this project there. It really is a great project, thanks for sharing, I am looking forward to seeing the rest of your progress.

 

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WeekendMiniaturist

The forum comes back to life!  I was thinking all the miniaturists have taken a leave of absence from making miniatures.

Bill, this is an incredible project; I still am amazed at the construction of the wheels with all the nails in the wood to strengthen the wheel.  Is the real cart actually in the UK?  I am looking forward to the windows.  They look like they will be very challenging, and I'm looking forward to the application of metal over the top of the cart.  

Thanks for posting an update here on the FMF.... 

 

 

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Bill Hudson

Starting on the wheels.  I glued up nine wedges (fellies) to make a wheel blank.These were made from white oak. There are eighteen spokes per wheel, two to each felly. 

 

 

 

s1360282813_wheelblanks.jpg.a43d97c135c01c3bcdc13afacc08edd4.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Bill Hudson

The wheels are four inches in diameter so much too large to turn in my sherline lathe.  I developed a plate that mounts on my rotary table and mounted in my sherline mill. 

 

plate.jpg.55e96a6cde7308d136fc2c1b2dbf54e4.jpg

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Bill Hudson

A sacrifice particle board blank is sawed on my band saw and drilled in the center. This is mounted over the post on the plate and held to the pate with double stick tape.

The wheel blanks are then mounted to the top the blank in the same manner. The the wheels are milled out. 

 

 

467285672_millingwheel2.jpg.934965351317a2e6fad7ccbb4b8958f3.jpg1087930618_millingwheel.jpg.677508564f0d66cd800351cc73e29974.jpg

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mgrlvr

Bill,

Hi!  I'm delighted to see you building.  Thank you for the post and these great photos of your work.

I look forward to following the project.

Patrick Wentzel

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Bill Hudson

Like I said there are over 500 nails in these of each wheel . I made a drilling jig to fit on the rotary table to his the drilling of the holes. I had a little problem of drill wander in the wood grain. The results are acceptable to me.

 

 

drilling.jpg.f231bef502986509a740b6e26ca9b622.jpgdrilled.jpg.857adce38ab1911d8747aca08ebda3a4.jpg

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WeekendMiniaturist

AMAZING wheel! 

I definitely relate to the wandering drill bit... Is there a way to alter the point of the drill bit so it doesn't wander so much?

 

 

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MeezerMama

Bill, this is fascinating!   I learn so much from your work.   Thanks for sharing it.  

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Bill Hudson

 

Jumping ahead for a sneak preview of things come. These are the main parts of the cart less one wheel which is still under construction. Every thing is kind os stacked together in these pictures. Once the last wheel is done I will be going to the metalwork to finish it off.

 

 

 

173543274_cart-1(2).jpg.a0ffcec35de5c3f638d23511f1f3bc01.jpg649973420_cart-1(1).jpg.8c953cd72f3999cce4a1ffaa6e4ed839.jpg1516116204_cart-1.jpg.351fdc36d7b05cca3276f5ef0a1993ef.jpg

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WeekendMiniaturist

This is incredible!  The windows of the cart are especially beautiful.  Don't you love it when a plan works out?

It's like being at GS without the hassles of travel!

 

 

 

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MeezerMama

This is exquisite.    Can we see a close-up of the window panels?   They look fabulous.

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Bill Hudson

 

This the lattice in the windows. I made them from 1/16" square cherry drawn round through a drill gage. 

 

1303505607_lattice-1(1).jpg.0d8df3a3779190249212c5527747f114.jpg

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WeekendMiniaturist

Since the cherry was drawn through a drill gage, they are rounded off, so did you file the edges that were assembled at 90 degrees with a round file?  

Is there tips for using a drill gage for reducing stock?  I didn't think my draw plate was very sharp, so I am interested if there is a specific brand that can be recommended.

The lattice is amazing!  

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Bill Hudson

 

I used a standard drill gage.  This one is Craftsman but the General ones are also good. You need to draw from the back side as the holes are sharper. Taper the end of the  piece being drawn  and start with the easiest hole. I stopped drawing before the pice became  completely round leaving a flat area.  I did not worry about trying to fit the ends to fit the profile of the adjoining piece. At that scale it is not noticeable. I made special fixtures to build the main components in. If you  will notice the upper section outer pieces form a Capital I and the lower pieces form a capital T. I made an assembly frame with a removal bottom. to the bottom I glued a drawing of the lattice. I cut apiece of wax paper to fit in it then build the lattice stating with the upper section. Then I build the lower section and fill in. 

 

 

905107041_gage-1.thumb.jpg.490c9e926f1a3e92275c9fd83290d665.jpgI

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Bill Hudson

First I made brass jigs to hold the parts while being glued. Shown here is the capital T part. the lower notch is used when making the capital I parts.

A blank is placed in the assembly fixture while the upper section is built. Then the lower section is built tome the whole lattice of one window.

The little black and striped parts below are inserted to space the leg of the T away from the fixture wall.

 

lattice - 1 copy 2.jpg

lattice - 1.jpg

lattice - 1 (1).jpg

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WeekendMiniaturist

Thank you Bill for sharing your genius with us in the fine miniatures forum.

It is so helpful to see these processes, as I find it very challenging to do this and get the glue to dry and the pieces to be straight.  I can see the underlying pattern would be very helpful and a ruler and pencil works perfectly.

Tamra

 

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