WeekendMiniaturist Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Hmmm, in theory, I like the ogee and the filet profile, bottom right hand corner, but I would flip it upside down and now round over the top for my stair treads. But the simple roundover, of the top and the bottom also works for me. You are making great progress.... Did you find the molding at Home Depot? I have looked at all of their moldings and visit the inventory periodically to keep it fresh in my head, to see what I can harvest. I also have the Menard's molding supplier, House of Fara, in our next West county that I can visit their molding outlet, and I have Nickell Moulding in the neighboring county to the East; moldings are prolific here. Yes, the experience of needing to add the 1/2" is the story of my dream build... that is why I am making the staircase first... I'm off to search and learn about species "movingui".... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 I found some nice molding for the ceiling trim for the living room, bedroom and hall, of the dollhouse, and in HD's mini-trim section, but nothing really small enough for enhancing the staircase, or the aspects thereof. Movingui is what I came across in my search for satinwood, many years ago, the former a viable substitute for the latter, as the colours and patterns are similar, but not in this instance... L-R: Mottled-mahogany, movingui, and East Indian satinwood; the satinwood's pattern is too large for miniatures however, but for solids it's great. The surface of the satinwood appears as though it's sprinkled with very finely ground glass; it shimmers in its own right. The movingui there in the image was acquired over 23 years ago. I still have a good bit of it left, but not as much as that would seem to imply. All three will be used in future, within this miniature and that. I get all of my woods online, and most everything else. I'll try to refrain from facing the risers with the mottled-mahogany, but I may not be able to resist. Incidentally, within that molding image, the ogee style is upside-down in relation to the way the tread edges will appear, and as I will make them. After all, no one will actually be treading upon them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 The original width of the bedroom has been restored, and the octagon re-centered, but the octagon is a little bit larger and is positioned a little bit lower, the bottom of the opening 5" from the floor. I plan on making the window of faux stained-glass... It's now ready for cutting out the openings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Using only a hole-saw and a jigsaw(or sabre-saw), the octagon is now cut and roughed out, and to be fine-tuned with a sanding slat and perhaps a few diamond files... It's a little off here and there, but the sandpaper and files will right it, and close enough. I realise that some, if not most, drill a round hole slightly larger and insert a ready-made, but I want it to reflect its having been hand-made; as though the builder had hired an out-of-work carpenter with hungry mouths to feed, and during the 1920s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 I took the jigsaw to the octagon one last time, and using my eye I improved it a bit further, and to the extent of what said tool is capable... The betterment is difficult to discern, granted. The front wall's various shapes are now cut out... The front wall will be attached first, sometime today, after test-fitting to ensure squareness. The side walls will then be matched to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 In so far as a staircase, a standard step rise of 6.75" has been in effect all along within the drafts, but a tread-depth of 10"+ is not possible for this house. I configured a 9" depth in the last draft, but that was a bit much, too. I've finally decided on an 8" tread-depth... The headroom is now realistic as one ascends, and I'm able to move the kitchen/dining-area opening further away from the front door, lest the Lilliputians collide with one another going in and out. The foundation, showing the area that will be occupied by the staircase... The lower flight will enclose the back opening of the living room somewhat; balancing; and cozy, but not too cozy; just right. I will have the option of attaching the lower flight to where its ground-step will front at the dotted line. I'd rather that, but no matter at either mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 The double-window for the dining area at the front wall will be this type of bay, and just a simple extension of same... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 In the small world, monoliths, and of solid mahogany... They've been marked with graphite. Hmm, for what might they be... ...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 I had almost forgotten and neglected the foundation... None of those components have been attached quite yet. I included wire-routing holes in the brace. If never used, they'll be decorative nonetheless, if one chances to upend the house and its contents for a look-see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 The exposed surfaces, and tips all around, of the legs have been sanded down and finished off with #0000 steel wool... I can't wait until the finish hits it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 The last two legs are now glued and screwed in place. All mating surfaces were roughened up with a knife, a criss-cross pattern, and before applying the glue... I may go through the tops of the legs with screws from the top of the floor. Glue-blocks will also be applied to each leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 After the glue had set I placed the foundation on a table, and with no rocking back and forth in the slightest I'm happy to report... The foundation, and the house eventually, sits no more than 1/2" off the surface, and so as not to dispel the illusion too terribly much. In a way, it will be like a fine furnishing in its own right. Now to attach the long brace, and the glue-blocks here and there, on the underside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WeekendMiniaturist Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I had not considered legs for the foundation; when I kit bashed my RGT Newport and made the foundation larger to add my octagon porch, we made a plywood sandwich that is flush with the table. I like the legs, and the space between, as it is easier to pick up the house, when it gives a little space for your fingers. I also like your stair applique that you showed us. Does the reduced size and design work with your revised stair's rise and run? Or can you just stretch / edit the image in software to work with your plans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 "Does the reduced size and design work with your revised stair's rise and run?" Yes, it will work fine just as shown, with no changes whatsoever. That image is only to rough it out. I will etch the rises and treads onto the wood itself with an X-Acto when the time comes, then cut out the waste. A pencil will not be fine enough. The stringer against the wall will be of hard maple, and the exposed stringers and treads of mahogany; mustn't waste the mahogany. The risers can be of basswood, then faced with mahogany veneer. I have quite a stack of 1/16"-thick basswood sheets... ...and primarily as "canvas" for painted miniatures, along with the unseen. Incidentally, you can see the mahogany there, just under the cherry on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 I don't think that those two legs are going anywhere anytime soon. Those two are finished, save for the finish... The glue-blocks were made from the remainder of the clear-pine 1x2 after creating the long brace. I then cut the 1.5" x 1.5" x .75" squares diagonally with the Grizzly scroll saw, then smoothed them all over. Unintentionally, I got some rather interesting surfaces as the blade(or each piece) strayed, and to the point where had I to do it all over again I would've made them that way on purpose. I also like how the blocks practically cover up the screw-heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 The foundation is complete, for the time being. Eventually the woods will need to be sealed and finished, which will be done once I decide on how to add electricity to the house. When I was about to attach the front wall to the foundation, before I actually did, I realised that the foundation wasn't finished. Up until then all I was thinking about was up, up, up, and instead of down under. There, that's done. I can now begin adding the walls... The four glue-blocks on the long sides were done just for kicks, as I don't see any real benefit given what had been done previously. But they're there if need be nonetheless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 The time is nearing for the main, front wall to go up. I used a couple of the extra glue-blocks as ledges to ensure a modicum of precision when positioning, and as the glue sets... Note the criss-cross scoring of the wood where the pieces will join. Again, keep in mind that this my first scratch-build of a structure. I'm just doing it and improvising as I go along, and not knowing what I'm going to do five minutes before I do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 Other things have to be performed before the attachment of the wall; everything must be readied beforehand... The wood-dough-filled depressions act as welding-spots, as for metals, but for wood instead and with no need for a torch or other. Incidentally, I found my large jar of light-coloured sawdust, perhaps of pine and/or basswood. I can use it to fill the screws holes on the ground floor and elsewhere in addition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WeekendMiniaturist Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 ummm....Jars of light coloured sawdust.... Yes, Fine Woodworking May/June 1985 No. 52, "Methods of Work" page 14, Tage Frid talks about mixing sanding dust to the consistency of putty with 2lb cut shellac if you are using shellac or oil finish. I will see if we have some shellac flakes that I can mix and try this when I get to this point in construction. The mixture doesn't take a finish, but I am guessing you will eventually lay floors after you complete your wire runs, so it will not be an issue. I imagine my labeled jars of sawdust next to the paints and my favorite oil finish, the sawdust labeled with cool fonts for the wood species on each jar... and then my husband, in a loud voice, from the basement, while I'm upstairs...YOU ACTUALLY SAVED SAWDUST??? Edited: 08/21/17 8:40 am EST, Mr. Frid says "sanding dust" in his article, but when we use our mini table saws, our saw dust might be finer. I will try to remember when I am turning to vacuum my wood chips up before I sand, and see what I can accumulate from the lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 I mix the sawdust with wood glue to create the filler, and yes, all fillings will eventually be covered with flooring and spackling compound, or whatever else might be used. The front wall is now attached to the foundation, and successfully... My Minolta likes to distort reality somewhat, I'm afraid. No, nothing is actually bowed or cupped. Naturally the wall wanted to tilt outward a tad when I battened down the screws, and not because the plywood edge wasn't even with the poplar below. The plywood edge was actually in a bit, and I had applied dough just to its edge, but then clamping it as pictured straightened it out square, the excess glue and sawdust oozing out and scraped off. Now to wait until it all sets. Next, I'll be installing one of the side walls, then the ground floor's inner partition, then the second floor, then the other side wall, then the second floor partitions, then the roof. Incidentally, this house was built by a Mr. Seymour Srygley, and in Midtown Memphis in 1924; a craftsman's house. That's my story anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 After about two hours of clamping, I've set it aside, as I don't want to mess with it until the glue cures... The squareness of the wall to the foundation was intact after removing the clamps, and with both sides right on their marks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 How would you configure the exterior... I'm afraid that the eye will always be drawn to that bathroom transom..."What could that be?" The dollhouse kits that are sold seem to focus more on the exterior, more of a symmetrical balancing, with matching windows and other features carefully placed, and at the expense of the interior. This "kit" of mine is the diametrical opposite. Now mine won't appear exactly as virtually portrayed, but quite close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WeekendMiniaturist Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 From my modeling perspective, kits... they are wonderful, and they alleviate the pain of the layout and decision making process. I always go back to the period of architecture and draw from the past... But Federal & Colonial homes are symmetrical. Can you put the octagon in the center, add another double window and move the transom to the other side? If your mind & soul is convinced that the octagon and transom must stay where they are now, Columns, porches, and Roof lines, aid in creating a focal point. Absent of the front being finished... what kind of paint program allows you to texture your stucco finish? This is cool. Oh, are there more software options to play with?! Earlier you mentioned an old paint program... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Again, this was a craftsman's house, built by a sometimes-carpenter in Memphis in 1924. Ah, but the exterior is of little if not of no importance whatsoever. In any event, that's really only a portion of the house. In real life, the house was certainly enjoyed when it was at least twice as large, with a bathroom and separate dining room on the ground floor, and that wrap-around porch just outside the front door; ever so nice 'twas. But in the 1950s, the old house was converted into a triplex; divvied up, and for a burgeoning post-war society. The upstairs bath has a modern tub as a result, yet combined with an old-style box-and-chain toilet acquired and installed when another old house was torn down(another individual got the footed tub, sadly); the blending, the merging, of time periods, for good or ill, for better or worse; a necessary evil, if you will. JASC/Corel's "Paint Shop Pro 6"...I tried version 7 when it became available, then went back to 6. I really couldn't tell you how I arrived at that texture; a plethora of operations to be sure, and a lucky shot. Despite the programme being quite old, some twenty years or so past, it serves my needs adequately. In the end, think of it not as a house, but of multiple room boxes combined; backdrops for my wares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miniature Studio Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Federal or Colonial, eh? Like this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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