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Found 4 results

  1. I wanted to try something a little more ambitious, so decided to make this chest from The Scale Cabinetmaker. I used a combination of walnut, red cedar, rosewood and basswood. The saw tooth carving is done on 600 micron sheet of silver oak veneer. The inlay sheet is one I picked up at Ron's when I visited Florida ages ago, but I want to try making my own inlay for future pieces. The chest has working drawers and opens and closes on a pin hinge.
  2. WeekendMiniaturist

    Carving on wood pieces for Furniture

    I've been studying - always causes trouble, but I'm trying not to make EVERY possible mistake and learn from others, .. so I've been studying how people carve, reading old woodworking magazines, books, youtube, etc... I want to carve the legs for the piano from The Scale Cabinetmaker Vol 12 no. 2 and keep going back to wanting to use a benchdog to hold the piece I am working on... but a normal life size bench dog would be so heavy for a 1/12th scale mini leg. Jim Dorsett was using a sandwich approach, but I would really like to carve the legs. https://dpllconline.com/product/v12-i2-the-scale-cabinetmaker-a-journal-for-miniaturists How do you hold pieces so you can carve the details? if feels awkward holding the piece in my hand to carve, and I am fond of my hands and don't want to stab myself with carving chisels.
  3. Elizabeth Gazmuri

    making a wood carving gouge

    I need to make a carving gouge. I want the cut to be 3/32" diameter. Here is what I'm planning to do. 5/32" drill rod that comes annealed, collet it up on the headstock of my lathe, with a 3/32" center drill in the tailstock start a hole, switch the center drill to a regular 3/32" drill and drill a hole. Questions so far: do I need to switch to a regular drill bit, and I mean like a hardware store drill bit, if the 3/32"shank of the center drill is long enough for my purposes? do I need to do anything other than use "bur life" lube to the regular drill? Grind the top bit off to form the gouge shape, and grind the bevel on the end to cut. Heat the gouge red hot quench in oil, and reheat a little to make the metal less brittle and requench in oil. I'd welcome any comments and advise. p.s. I am going to LOVE this forum!
  4. This table was my excuse to build one of the many constructions that are out there are to extend a dining table. One of these methods is this draw-leaf construction, or pull out, where the leaves are stowed underneath the table top when not in use. I figured that's a really neat feature if you like to 'play' with your miniatures. First I made a modern version of this type, to get to grips with the construction and when that one run smooth I turned to this one; This original was listed on the site of an antique dealer, but with my understanding of the construction and mechanism under the belt I scaled out a plan. Some joint were a bit unclear but I could fall back on period cabinet making books to figure them out. I decided to make it from cherry to represent the the oak wood that this 19th Centure refectory table is made of best. The aprons had some lovely carvings on them, so I added those before assembly. Just like the melon feet; I carved and stained them first. The sliding mechanism was the final job. Here's what it turned out to be;
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