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  1. 3 points
    Amazing that those who are shown how to work with METRIC, just find it so much easier. Seems to be a problem at the government level about implementing Metric, must be somebody who has a special interest ( think making lots of money ) by keeping that antiquated MONGREL measurement. The stupid thing is the the American Dollar is pure metric, 100 cents per dollar, 100 centimeters per metre, even use the same abbreviation - CENT - wow, how close is that, eh ? Even the old mongrel inch has been metricated, think 1000 thousands of an inch marked on a Micrometer, even use that word METER again.
  2. 3 points
    After a long search I managed to find fir wood with tiny knots. Although it doesn't show the cathedral grain (it would have been too much out of scale) because I cut it on the vertical grain, it is perfect for my project (a drying attic). Thank you all for your help!
  3. 3 points
    1910 Cretors popcorn wagon. Test fitting various parts for alignment.
  4. 3 points
    In response to your request for more postings, here are some pics of a 1:8 scale roll-top desk. Constructed of Mahogany and Poplar because I already had these materials, but a tighter grain wood should have been used. Most difficult part to make was the tambour top. The drawers have dovetails but since they were made using an inverse cone cutter, they don't have the correct angle. I haven't started on the chair yet. Cheers, Guy
  5. 2 points
    The support piece at the back of my Klein duplicator is made from white/natural colored UHMW plastic, it is not delrin. Not that it matters as they are both slippery plastics. But they do have other properties that are different.
  6. 2 points
    I used steel binding (banding) strap for making my templates. Can cut it with Jeweler saw or use abrasive disc in Dremel tool to shape.
  7. 2 points
    PetrikNZ, I know you are more interested in fully upholstered pieces, but I would like to offer one more detail to Elga’s webbing support in her fabulous chair. Even fully upholstered pieces have supports. I took a class from Elga at Guild School and created a wonderful chair at her instruction. I did manage to create a more narrow webbing strap by weaving the tape myself. I used a Greta loom and the technique learned at another Guild School class with Bonni Backe. It really is a most wonderful week! Martha in Louisiana
  8. 2 points
    Picture of truck.
  9. 2 points
    Hi, Bill I show two photos, one by accident, on my computer. I'll attach another one and maybe the wheel will appear.
  10. 2 points
    Guild School 2019 still has openings in classes. Some are full, but there are lots of great classes available. Check out the Guild School pages on the website. http://igma.org/guild_school/index.html
  11. 2 points
    This is truly a delight to see a Miniature Hitty in the class of Tiny Dolls' Dolls. If you register for Guild School this could be one of your class selections!
  12. 2 points
    A 1/12th scale 16 Passenger Omnibus, made from the drawings of J.E.Bishop, printed in "The Australasian Coachbuilder and Saddler, Oct 1896. Have a look thru the album and see what you think . https://photoland.io/greenie
  13. 2 points
    My workbench still has several unfinished projects on it: one unfinished window for Aragon, the beginning of a new room box, the roof of my Greene & Greene bungalow, et al. But, I have finished both of my Guild School projects: a peacock done in Johannes Landman’s class and turned birdhouses done in Iulia Chin Lee’s class. It was a great week!
  14. 2 points
    Yes, it was me And it was a wood carved Hitty... Don't know inches, she is about 3 cm tall
  15. 2 points
    I needed some very small C clamps. Made these from aluminum bar and 2-56 bolts. I cut three segments from off the shelf aluminum bar and epoxied then in a sandwich. I set it up in my sherline mill and milled out the slot. Then milled the blanks down to shape. I finished them off with a file. These were made for utility purpose so not refined.
  16. 2 points
    Josje, my experience of finding in scale miniature pine or spruce is to always be on the hunt and have a stash. I found some at a local store that specializes in re-selling reclaimed / recycled building materials... you can look at old pieces of furniture at private sales, or even at the wood store... but just like silk, a stash is the way I've been accumulated in-scale miniature wood. The alternative is to contact someone who specializes in selling wood to miniaturists. Here in the USA, or for our international buyers if you want to import, I really recommend Steve & Mary Goode. http://shgoode.com/ Do tell all your friends locally, especially those in the wood working, furniture building business... they can be a great resource... just take a project with you and wow them... it never hurts to ask! I am lucky to have my own contact at a local cabinet shop, as my husband is a pro, and is always on the lookout for fine quartersawn wood for me. I even have a 1 piece of pine that he brought home has a few miniature knots... they look like tiny birdseye to me, and I know it isn't maple! I'm saving this piece for a very special project! if you cannot find suitable in-scale wood grain, you can alway faux paint the grain to get the effect you wish.
  17. 1 point
    The delrin piece that supports the cutter arm can be adjusted up/down. I don't think you'll have to replace anything. I am also not using an original-equipment cutter - plus I have it installed with the cutting point rotated ever so slightly off of vertical (I can see it but I'm reluctant to change it because I've made some parts and I want the others to match). Either of those things could easily account for my issue, which is somewhere on the order of about 0.012" (best guess). I guess what I'm pointing out is that each time you take out your cutter to sharpen it, or change cutters the height could change ever so slightly so adjusting the delrin is more practical than changing things out for a permanent set-up. I'm just setting a thin brass shim atop the delrin and that's working fine. I'm not motivated to tear it apart and diddle with the height right now in the middle of my run of spindles. EDIT: After re-reading Karin's post, I now realize that she's talking about matching the height on a macro level and I was talking about the micro-fine adjustments. I recommend 0.015" thick brass for the template. I have a bunch of blanks that I got from either Tom Walden or Pete Boorum and they are all about 0.015" (OK, maybe some are 0.016"). I think those will last forever. If they were thicker, it would be harder to cut them with the jeweler's saw. I have some unrelated 0.010" thick brass and it is *way* too flimsy to use for the template.
  18. 1 point
    Scaled to Perfection: A Gallery of New Miniatures Gala Celebration April 30th – May 2nd, 2019 Following the Chicago International Show Following the Chicago International Show A perfect ending to your experience in Chicago. Spend three days in Maysville, Kentucky, exploring the KSB Miniatures Collection’s latest exhibition, Scaled to Perfection: A Gallery of New Miniatures. Enjoy Kaye Browning’s laid-back southern hospitality while touring the historic Ohio River town and surrounding areas in your free time. Relax with your fine-scale miniatures community while examining new and never-before-seen works in the galleries and learn from some of the most talented miniaturists in the world as they demonstrate their skills. Cost for the three-day event is $150. Tuesday April 30th Doors open at 10 am. Demonstrations by 20 artisans will take place throughout the day. Lunch will be provided. Gala celebration begins at 5:30 pm. Includes hors d'oeuvres and one drink ticket. Cash bar will also be available. Choose from a variety of Maysville locations for dinner (on your own). Wednesday May 1st Artisan demonstrations continue throughout the day. Dinner includes your choice of three entrees (location to be announced). Dinner begins at 6 pm followed by the Kentucky Chautauqua performance Madeline McDowell Breckinridge: Votes for Women! by Kelly Brengelman* at 7:30 pm. Cash bar. Thursday May 2nd Complimentary breakfast 9 to 10 am. Cash bar for mimosas and Bloody Marys. Silent Auction begins at 10 am. Gala concludes at noon. Contact Tandy Nash with questions: 606-564-5865 or 606-316-6835 education@kygmc.org or tandy1957@gmail.com Download the registration form here. Mailing and payment information on form. *This program was funded in part by Kentucky Humanities and the National Endowment for the Humanities. Visit us on Facebook and Instagram for previews! Tour the Maysville area City of Maysville tourism Facebook Instagram Travel Maysville is a six-hour drive from the Chicago Marriot O’Hare. Flights available from Chicago O’Hare (ORD) to Lexington Bluegrass (LEX) and Cincinnati N. Kentucky (CVG) airports Amtrack runs from Chicago to Maysville April 28 Discounted Lodging: Ask for KSB Miniatures event French Quarter 25 E McDonald Pkwy. Maysville, KY 41056 $85 per night 606-564-8000 www.frenchquarterinn.com .3 mile away Hampton Inn 503 Market Place Drive Maysville, KY 41056 $99 per night 606-759-0600 Hampton Inn Maysville 2.8 miles away Little Things B&B Perfect for groups: 3 bedrooms, 2 bath Call for availability and pricing 606-407-1487 Little Things B&B .3 mile away
  19. 1 point
    The lathes.... Unimat SLs, etc. These are those mostly green machines that had 2 round bars acting as a bed that millions like me lusted over as kids at the local hobby shop. They had a wonderful brochure that showed they could do anything with the right accessories. In a sense they were a table top Shop Smith. Basicly my opinion on machines that can do everything is they do none of it well. These were also prominently featured in all kinds of projects shown in the magazines of the day and were super popular. They almost seem to have a cult following today based on the prices, in a sense it is a little like the muscle cars today but a lot less money. Guys that always wanted one now can afford to have one and they lust after all the accessories. What I didn’t like about them was the tolorences are sloppy, the center height is low, they are a pain to clean the scarf out of and the carriage. Now this is my number one and two complaints about these and these and both apply at all models of Unimats and Sherlines! The carriage is not easily removable and is controlled by a hand wheel on the right end of the bed. The lathe must be mounted up high or at the edge of the bench to leave room for your hand. The removable feature is so you can do hand turning without all this carriage stuff in the way. The other feature I don’t like is it screw barrel tailstock these lathes have. Your hands get tired turning that handwheel while peck drilling tiny holes. Unimat 3, These were the much later often white lathes with cast iron beds. The tolorences were much better as were just about everything however my big 2 complaints still exist. Sherline, These are by far the best when it comes to overall quality, looks, fit & finish, support, etc. They also have a matching milling machine that takes many of the same accessories. I should also mention that both Jerry and I have recived awards by the Joe Martin Foundation which is the parent of Sherline. Thank You! Taig, This is what I use most of the time. I think I even wrote the review in the Scale Cabinetmaker nearly 40 years ago. But the version I use is not an out of the box Taig, it has some crucial modifications. For years the Taig was not sold as a ready to run out of the box. The motors offered over the years changed. I like those I think 1660 rpm ones he was selling for $20 ages ago. They were super smooth and quiet. I don’t like the DC motors and changing speeds with the belt takes seconds and is easy. The two modifications I do are first a collect nose to take the WW style collets which Sherline makes and I use. While Taig makes a WW spindle the collet is too close to the front of the headstock not giving room for your hands and blocking your vision. I machine one of Taigs blank arbors and turn down a Sherline draw bar that puts the front of the collet about 1 1/4” out in front of the headstock. I also use the Sherline chucks, especially the 4 jaw universal, with an adaptor ring. The spindle threads are same size but the Taig is longer. The Sherline chucks have much smaller jaws and are therefore safer. The other modification I make it a woodworking style Tee rest. I started this ages ago by drilling and tapping holes in the bed and mounting a shortened Unimat 3 tee rest. I have since made my own patterned after that. Now days both Lee Vally and Taig offer a tee rest that fits without modifying the lathe. I just prefer mine. A key to this is being able to remove the carriage instantly, this take about 5 seconds. A word on the carriage, it operates on a gear and rack hence no lead screw and therefor no handwheel at the right end of the bed. It allows for much faster travel of the tool over the work giving you much better control of you cutting speeds. It is much easier to like light cuts. This feature along with Taigs lever operated tail stock makes drilling and turning small parts lightening fast. Some parts I can do faster than CNC. The bearings on the Taig are great, I have never worn any of the out! The alinement or the tailstock could be better. Anyway, those are my basic feelings on little lathes.....
  20. 1 point
    Bill If your machines are 20 years old, alignment and construction quality has been tightened up considerably along with design changes. However the alignment accessory is still occasionally used by those demanding perfection. Your oil cans remind me of a Grease Gun fiasco of years ago. This was as mentioned years ago when I built a 1/8th exact scale running fully functional 1936 John Deere model "D" tractor. This Tractor was a copy of one my grandfather purchased new. However, in running and performing functions of the tractor, it required grease in some hard to reach areas in the same manner as the original. It was determined that the easiest way to grease these areas was to build a fully functional 1/8th scale grease gun and period style grease fittings. (Attached photo) While not near as cute as your oil cans, it does pump standard grease as seen in the photo. I then removed a grease fitting from the full size tractor and scaled it down to 1/8th scale. I will never forget that it took forever and ever to machine the .010" (.25mm) functional check balls and springs. The springs were wound from .001" (.025mm) tempered cross hair wire I swindled out of a German rifle scope company. (Long story) While humorous today but certainly not then, I later found that the grease fitting scaled from was a later replacement. The originals did not have check balls and springs. At least the replacements took less time to construct. Jerry Kieffer
  21. 1 point
    When I was selling miniatures these little 1/12th scale oil cans were popular. They are fun to make. I could sit down in an evening and turn out ten or twelve or so. These, including the spouts were turned on my Sherline lathe. This lathe is over 20 years old and still very solid and accurate. Over the years I have turned some very hard metals on it with out hurting it.
  22. 1 point
    Bill First, I do not remember the small engine incident, but whatever happened it would of been my fault for not having it secured. Tailstocks are a issue with all lathes in the price range of a Sherline. First, if you have a earlier tailstock with the horizontal locking screw squeezing a slot together, there is nothing you can do other than having a new tailstock fitted. The latest version has a brass Gibb that is locked in place by a vertical screw. With this improvement, tailstock repeatability is absolute assuming no defective parts that are rare on these machines. However repeatability is not alignment. Alignment is extremely expensive from the factory and comes in two forms, the tailstock itself and the drill chuck. The Chuck in the photo is a Albrecht that is very expensive but very accurate. The assembly behind the chuck is Sherlines alignment accessory P/N1202 for those who demand alignment perfection. Its instruction for use is covered in the following link. https://sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1204inst.pdf I machined the one in the photo to a smaller diameter for a special project for use in the Milling Machine. Also, thank you for the very kind words. I build everything small so no one can see the mistakes. Jerry Kieffer
  23. 1 point
    You bet! What would be interesting to do would be this herringbone pattern but all converging to the center from all four directions rather than just left to right, something like this floor in a house for sale. I would use an electric chop saw not the aluminum miter box. I used mahogany and walnut.
  24. 1 point
    And this one has just found a new home!!! Thanks Greenie!
  25. 1 point
    I will second what Bill has stated about Gerald Wingrove, I bought "The Complete Car Modeller" over 30 yrs ago and still refer to it whenever I hit a brick wall, to me it is --- the ---- Modelling BIBLE, a MUST have book. All of Gerald Wingrove's books are an eye opener, once you have acquired one, then it wont be long and you'll soon be buying the rest of his books. Here's a list of over 160 books, all by Gerald Wingrove, from the cheapest to the dearest, for you to choose from. https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?bsi=0&kn=Gerald+Wingrove&sortby=17&prevpage=2 Oh, the book 'The Complete Car Modeller' originally came out as a Hard Back book, then it was re-issued as a two book set, The Complete Car Modeller # 1 and The Complete Car modeller # 2, the later two books 1 & 2 are only soft covers, they do have a few more items in them, compared to the original hard backed edition.
  26. 1 point
    That floor is going to look amazing!
  27. 1 point
    I have wanted to make a dollhouse that was authentic to the Federal Period. My journey began with a kit dollhouse but quickly stalled when I realized that the ceiling height was too low. It just bothered me so much that I could not bring myself to finish it. With time for miniatures at a premium, I decided to break down the project into rooms. Each room would be made in its entirety and then someday would be assembled into a house at a later date. The symmetry of Federal homes works well for this and you can enjoy your finished room, while you work on the rest of the building. So my plan began with the construction of the dining room. If you want more of blow by blow you can go here: http://www.picturetr...m/lmhillgartner The room exterior is 17 inches square and 13 inches high. The interior is 16 inches wide, 14 inches deep and has a 12 inch ceiling height. The windows and china cabinets are real glass and scratch built. All of the moldings are made from lumber that has been pieced together to give the effect. All of these are copies of the moldings in the Samuel Whitehorne house in Newport, RI. I took a class from Peter Kendall in which we made one of the walls from that help and I adapted it to my room box. The carpet is called the Spanish Savonnerie, a chart by Joseph Boria and stitched by me on 40 ct silk gauze. The picture is one I painted at the Guild show in a class by Phyllis Hawkes. My first painting ever - she is an amazing teacher. Here are some close-ups of the wood work but are early pictures before I added the knobs made by Ron Stetkowicz. The hardest part for me was the cornice or crown molding. I had to develop this on my own because the wall I made in Peter's class did not have a ceiling and thus only part of the cornice. With the help of a dear friend, Tamra, I was talked through the process of combining different shape wood molding to achieve the final cornice. I was also guided by the original plans for the house that I found on the Library of Congress website. Original plans: Planning the cornice: Close-up of the finished product. I was able to contact the original person that Peter used to get the laser cut diamond shapes to use in the cornice. The reeded parts are actually half rounds glued side by side - yes a bit tedious. The room is now awaiting lighting, furniture and all the other wonderful stuff you put in a dining room. Lots of shopping again. Now on to the living room. It will be a mirror image of this room and I will change the cabinets at the back to something unique to that room. Don't hold your breadth, this room took me a couple of years.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I really like the finish of door knobs and hardware Ron Stetkewicz; I have purchased lots of hardware over the years from different artisans at various shows, and I definitely want to support our 2nd generation miniaturists that have continued in the art of fine miniatures. https://www.facebook.com/Ronstetkewiczminiatures/ You can alter the shine on brass finishes with blueing products used by gun smiths... I have used Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal finish and found this to be acceptable. Other alternatives are products used in the Stained glass world to age your solder. I only have minimal experience but have found products available in these specialties to be helpful. I know the brass black worked to age my nails for a leather sofa project; but I have only used the Novacan black patina for aging solder for a intro to stained glass class. (check out the supply at Delphiglass.com). If you have someone locally that you work with in the artistic & restoration community, perhaps they will let you experiment with your miniatures - Hobby Lobby may have some of this product in their inventory; I'm trying my best to stay out of the stores. You are making great progress and it is fun to see the updates. It is coming together nicely.
  30. 1 point
    Did our Canadian Miniaturists find Mr. Robertson on live TV when you were channel surfing? I'm so impressed! He teaches, makes exquisite miniatures and can manage public speaking engagements. Mr. Robertson was a participant at the 19th Idea City Conference, in Toronto, Canada. I am looking forward to the next Miniature Masterpiece!
  31. 1 point
    The red-haired collector in Pennsylvania was probably Carolyn Sunstein and I catalogued an Usher clock for her when Noel Barrett sold her collection back in 2005. I recall it brought several hundred dollars. I have a hand-carved aumbry by David Usher - in fact, I had two and sold one some years ago. It is on the right in this photo.
  32. 1 point
    I'm reposting my Guild School Projects to this thread as well. Thanks Missy - I thought we should do that, but got sidetracked. I've completed my Peacock in oil from Johannes Landman's 36 hour class. Original was by Edwin John Alexander c 1900. I also completed 2 turned birdhouses in Iulia Chin Lee's 12 hour lathe class. One is Cherry and Padauk, the other is Padauk and American Holly. Loved both classes and learned so much. Both teachers were excellent! Martha in Louisiana
  33. 1 point
    Thank you so much for posting this! And for opening this thread! Hugely interesting for those of us who did not attend... so much to learn just from your pics, posts and experience!
  34. 1 point
    Mesouth, your Painting from Johannes class at Guild School is exquisite! And of course, I like the little birdhouses! I know that we all create wonderful miniatures, but deep in my soul, I think of paintings as one of the top of the artistic endeavors of our artistic community! I did spend some hours yesterday and today at the lathe. I am now able to turn the needlework stand uprights segments in about in the range of 75 to 90 minutes after I have turned one end to a length of .600 and diameter of .3125 so it fits into the collet. I think at the beginning of my 3rd summer of practice I am finally to the place where I want to be, to turn with some measured, confidence. They are not perfect; but my skills have definitely improved. Now I am working on using my incredible tapered indexing jig, that Mr. Robertson created for the class (and students could purchase), and then the fun part of turning the beautiful details will be the final stage for the turnings.... after that is assembly and finish. I have no idea where I stored my gravers though... they were not under my table with all the rest of my turning tools. <uh oh...> Do we have any other Guild Students who can share some photos of your projects on the Forum? There is so much to miss when you are not able to go to Guild School, and as another year passes, I know I miss seeing everyone and sharing the joy of the best week of the year, but I miss seeing the results of everyone on Friday evening... so I am waiting to see the official photos! If I ever get my Guild School & Guild Study classes finished, I will post pictures!
  35. 1 point
    just checking in and waving a big hello! looking forward to reading all the forums and checking everything out! motorhead
  36. 1 point
    well... totally ridiculous and insanely ambitious... this engineers dream table; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ_AwFSWIPU here's a little more explanation Of course this is way above my head and just too hard to reproduce in 1:12. There are a few mechanisms though, that come close to the same circular expanding feature, but those don't stow the leaves that increase the size of the top. And that's what actually makes it so attractive to me. And is so useful in miniature too. That way you can 'play' with it without having a bunch of loose table tops you need to put in. A feature that made me make this table But a circular one is definitely on my to-dream-do-list
  37. 1 point
    The National Museum of Toys and Miniatures is pleased to announce that Miniature Masterworks, a juried art show and sale, will return to Kansas City in 2021. This multi-day event will feature fine-scale miniature artists showcasing and selling their newest art. Here is a a film about the 2017 show. BARBARA MARSHALL AWARD FOR ARTISTIC ACHIEVEMENT The Barbara Marshall Award for Artistic Achievement, honoring miniature artists who exceed the current standards of fine-scale miniature making, will be awarded again in 2021. The 2017 prizes were awarded for first place to Rohit Khanna for his Secretaire, second place to Jack Cashmere for his Minton Dessert Stand c. 1851, and third place to Althea Crome for The Nativity. APPLICATION INFORMATION Artist applications for the 2021 show will be available in the Fall of 2018 and due in early 2019. Application materials should include a headshot, 3-4 images of recent work, and a short biography. If you are not on the Miniature Masterworks mailing list, email masterworks@toyandminiaturemuseum.org to receive notifications.
  38. 1 point
    Jason, thank you for answering the call for posts! I have always wondered about music box mechanisms; I think I have a few that need repair but are not in 1/12th scale miniatures. I have a Fisher Price record player that I have always wanted to repair, that was a toy for our sons, but I have no idea how the mechanism works. I think it works like a music box, the records are grooved and it plays music, but someone overwound and it doesn't play the records anymore.... If I remember, Edelweiss on one of those records and I remember the ahah moment as an adult when I realize that the song was from The Sound of Music. I wonder if I have the same music box in my collection; it is in a little stand - like a night stand... I have wandered if that was a houseparty gift from one of the NAME events. I am amazed by the modelers who build working engines in any scale. In my participation in the Yahoo Groups Unimat Forum, I discovered that unimat / edelstaal had a steam model engine kit to retrofit a Tonka truck, and that project has landed on my to do list... crazy? I don't know if I will ever get round to the project, but it sounds like a fun gift to give the youngest son that still appreciates Tonka. I can relate to 50 projects on the lifetime list! I hope you have some time in between customers to ponder your long term projects.
  39. 1 point
    Congratulations on the new website; I like the new tone of yellow change to the golden tones. Websites seem like a lot of work while someone is working, but I'm sure it helps people find your business. Congrats on the update and it is nice to see you pop into the forum.
  40. 1 point
    Bill, if you aren’t familiar with floam, I can measure some for you. The grandchildren use it in slime production. Some supplies are stored here in my workshop because their mother thinks it makes too big of a mess! Martha in Louisiana
  41. 1 point
    Hey there! Been busy with the new website (still). Latest customer project related to this forum is a tiny music box hidden in a 1/12 scale cabinet. I'm not building it, just repairing the mechanism. Latest personal project is research into a little known aircraft from the first World War, planing on making a 1/3 scale version (with functional engine). Needless to say this is probably one of those 5 to 10 year projects... I have about fifty of those, but this one I've got a good feeling about. Jason
  42. 1 point
    Some good instructions for stick building would be The Scale Cabinetmaker Issues 6:4 - 7:3 where they built the store. I still want to build that project. But of course can’t start that any time soon.
  43. 1 point
    No more (ahem, additional) projects. Right? (laughing). This year, my building was going to be an 18th century English cottage/Georgian with a saddlery shop on the first floor catering to fox hunters. To kill some time while waiting for our dog to be finished at the vet, my husband and I went to breakfast and still had some time after that. So we went to a resale shop we had never been to, just down the street from the vet. We walked around and when we came to the washing machines, I stopped. My mind was processing something I thought I saw on the floor as we came in. A dollhouse? Had to have been a Barbie house. Or something like that. Plastic? I went back and examined it. No, it was wood and 1:12 scale. The more I looked, the more I liked it. Then told myself I did not NEED another project. To leave it there. The lady working there said it was $50 and came with a bag of furniture. FOOOM! It was in my car. The dog had to share the seat with it going home.
  44. 1 point
    I have the real thing...it actually is spruce and it has in-scale knots. It is spruce from Canada, found some boards of it at a local Seattle, USA lumber supply. Here is an image of the wood with a ruler next to it along with a 1:12 scale window and door. I was cutting it up into wide plank flooring which was suitable for the era of the project. So basically you can find spruce planks with tiny knots but I had to sort through a stack of boards to find them. Most of the boards had larger knots and grain. The trees from the cold, far northern climates grow much more slowly and have these tight growth rings with very small knots. So where the trees are sourced from does matter a lot. Wood from Siberia, Alaska, northern Canada, Norway, the European alps, etc are more likely to be suitable for in-scale projects. For sourcing some in Europe try the keywords "alpine spruce", "German Spruce", "Austrian Spruce", Russian Spruce". It is pretty easy to find very tight grained spruce wood from luthier sources where it is called Tonewood but typically tonewood is sold as clear lumber with no knots in it because they would interfere with the acoustic property of the timber. But the nice thing about tonewood, it comes in wide but thin planks! I have a lot of those planks on hand and some are even quarter sawn. I did some 3D CAD work for a specialty lumber mill that makes tonewoods for the guitar industry so I got to take as much as I wanted from their "seconds" piles. All that wood was sourced from Alaska.
  45. 1 point
    I think it partly depends on where you are in the world and the piece you happen to get. Colin Bird made beautiful tables long ago out of some pear he had with tiny knots in it. It was very much in scale with gorgeous wood grain.
  46. 1 point
    I would suggest looking at vertical grain Douglas fir. If you can get closer to the sapwood the grain is finer and the color varies.
  47. 1 point
    Its big fun to create miniatures and roomboxes. I hope in next year I will get place for small workshop. On this time all miniatures I make on office desk. A have only small table saw, tiny router and some hand tools...
  48. 1 point
    The first three days was fairly cloudy and cold, we woke up to glorious sunny weather on Wednesday morning. Wednesday night is the only free night during Guild School, after having chocolate martini's and watching the sock competition in The Bilge two of my friends and I went down to the lighthouse. There is a pathway that goes down to the water from the lighthouse and here we witnessed a beautiful and peaceful sunset. A beautiful rose and garden on the way back to the lighthouse. From the lighthouse we went down to the dock area where it was very quiet, it was so good to enjoy a bit of fresh air and quietness with an almost full moon in the evening sky. Lobster cages! A sailing boat coming back to dock, we saw them dropping the sails for the night. A house in Castine with a Laburnum plant in full bloom.
  49. 1 point
    Well, 46 days later and after about 80 hours of work I am almost done with this piece, I photographed the petitpoint together with the 1/12 scale print of the original photo. I am now planning on outlining the shapes that needs it with a thinner cream thread using back stitch as well as adding the red detail on the lion, the petitpoint will go on the Queen Anne table that I showed you last week, here is the link to the original table, I found this table about four years ago, I think this is one of the most beautiful Queen Anne tables that I have ever seen...especially with that needlework top! And I like the lion's story too :-) http://www.solomonbly.com/index.pl?isa=Metadot::SystemApp::AntiqueSearch;op=detail;id=96648;image_id=210811; And here is the story of the lion, it comes from Aesop's fables.
  50. 1 point

    From the album: Accessory & Other Objects

    1/12 th scale roller skates, they adjust for length and the the toe clips tighten, all by using the skate key.

    © Wm. R. Robertson

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