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    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 01/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hi these are 12th scale miniatures I made in 1997, all made from antique mahogany. The small table was made by Michael Walton.
  2. 4 points
    Look at THIS! Laughing witches, complete with bat wings, spider's web and a gorgeous background. This will HAVE to be the doors of a wardrobe for a haunted dollhouse one day.
  3. 4 points
    Hi Missy, Looking for a different wire type and came across .006" diam .152 mm music wire/ spring wire. Wasn't sure how fine you had found: http://www.travers.com/wire/p/87454/?keyword=music wire And a maker of tiny springs: http://www.drtempleman.com/coil-springs/miniature-springs The above also sells tiny springs, compression conical for just over a buck each, compression pricier at $3+ for tiny A truly excellent description of making tiny compression springs using a small lathe: http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/springs/springs.html And a three part that also mentions straightening the music wire before coiling if it was previously coiled: http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=247 torsion spring: http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=276 I'd love to see pictures of your spring progress!
  4. 4 points
    One of the pieces that I will have for sale at the Masterworks show, a tiny wooden box with a secret drawer in the shape of a book based on a real antique dating from the 1840's. As small as this is it turned out to be a lot more work time wise than what I expected...so what else is new! The finished book is made from birch, cherry and imbuia...basically because these are softer and easier woods to work with and I am teaching this as a class at our local club. The other wood combination is made from three South African woods namely mopane, yellowwood and blackwood and the ones made from this wood combination are the ones that will be for sale.
  5. 3 points
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2018!!
  6. 3 points
    This was the first project I made in a metals class in art school. The assignment was to fabricate something in metal. Using forming and silver soldering techniques. I chose to make a 1: 12 scale teapot on a stand. The stand was made of sterling silver square wire because I needed that gauge and sterling was all I had. The flower cup holder (for the burner) was cut out of a dapped piece of sterling with a jewelers saw. When finished, the stand was oxidized to make it look like wrought iron. The body of the teapot is brass and was made of two dapped pieces soldered together. I wanted a tapered hollow spout and the only way I knew to make it at that time was to electroform it. I made a wax interior shape and painted a conductor on it. Then literally grew copper over the wax. Once I had enough copper built up on the wax, I was able to melt out the wax and solder the spout on the brass pot. The teapot had to be gold plated. The burner was made out of telescoping tubes and sheet brass and gold plated. The wood knob and handle are ebony. More 40 years later this first project makes me blush/cringe a bit. I made five of these pieces. Dearing and Tracy (miniature dealers from the 1970's) sold all the other ones for me. I have often wondered what happened to Dearing & Tracey. They had beautiful miniatures at the time.
  7. 3 points
    And this rocker is like the one in the catalog. Had a hard time doing the mortise and tenon joints for the curved back slats - and get the back seat rail in there at the same time. Before the glue got tacky enough to make things stick together and hold, the rocker would explode all over the floor and table. And then the glue would be too dry, or too wet again and another explosion would happen. Tried doing butt joints instead of mortising for the seat rails and that didn't help. May have made things worse as it was very slippy. I'm going to give myself some credit as this rocker had NO right angles whatsoever. Learned a lot of new techniques though.
  8. 3 points
    Here is a dwarf rabbit Rex 1:12 Find our creations on latelierdunain.com
  9. 3 points
    Progress! The rooks and knights are finished. On to the bishops.
  10. 3 points
    CF, the calipers are a great tool. In Elga's Queen Anne Writing Chair class this year at Guild School, we used calipers to keep consistent in not only turning, but when using the milling machine/drill press and when hand sanding. I gained a great deal of confidence in actually making pieces that looked the same. If you are still comfortable with Tamara's Option 3, the calipers can help you choose the pieces that are most closely matched. This has been an interesting thread and your work is beautiful! Martha in Louisiana
  11. 3 points
    Here is my smallest to date. I used a a cat whisker to paint the rigging. I had read that this was done at one time. I had a hard time holding the cat down while moving his head back and forth to paint but eventually got it done. That was just a little joke. No cat was harmed.
  12. 2 points
    The Frame looks good, you are making good progress. You may want to consider trying your color / staining experiments on uncarved wood. The original frame is strange to me, as it looks barn weathered and not finished at all, as my fussy expectations for a frame would be, for a masterpiece hanging in a museum. My Grandmother was a painter and she participated in the Artistic Community in New Mexico when I was in my teenage years. She loved barn weathered wood for her frames, and while the original is carved ornately for this Van Gogh, it doesn't appear to be finished, it appears to the weathered.... this is a whole other set of techniques. Noel & Pat Thomas are the experts on weathered techniques in our miniature community... if you go back to the KC Toy and Miniature Museum, they have one of their structures on display, and then you can read their articles in Nutshell News or read Pat's blog... http://www.thomasopenhouse.com/ If these techniques are of interest to study, the model railroaders have lots of articles and publications on weathering... I even have one of their books somewhere in my piles of books, so may find some useful info at your library.
  13. 2 points
    The hardest part of being a miniaturist is deciding which details to leave out and let the mind's eye fill in the blanks. The artist gets to decide on the details you omit, and as you indicated, Van Gogh didn't give the guy feet under the table!
  14. 2 points
    Working on a 1/12 scale Shetland Pony. Will post progress photos. Equine miniatures are a specialty but this is the first one I've done 100% from scratch and felted. Having a lot of fun with him. I have visions of paring him with a porcelain child doll. He is 3 inches at the shoulder.
  15. 2 points
    I haven't done much sculpting with polymer clay. Partly because I hate how soft it is. I am very glad to hear that there is a new clay coming out soon with much better working qualities. These are two resent pieces I made in 1: 12 scale. The goose is flocked with pure silk embroidery floss I cut into dust. The feathers are white turkey. The rabbits coat is Alpaca.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    I know I am replying to an older post from 2015. But while rereading this thread I noticed the issues above. This can indeed be an issue with the tilt arbor Microlux saw and also with the tilt arbor Proxxon saw. Both of those saws are made in the same factory in Japan and built using most of the same parts. A few years back I purchased a used Proxxon saw from craigslist and it had cutting problems. So I got out my measuring tools and discovered that the saw blade was not parallel to the miter slots in the table top which of course also meant parallel issues to the fence. As I quickly discovered there was no way to adjust the alignment of the arbor mounts that hold the blade in position. Of course I could not return a used table saw so I started taking things apart and made it adjustable While I was doing that I took the time to document the process and post it on my blog. So even if you have one of these defective tilt arbor saws that came out of the factory being misaligned and it is sitting on a shelf in your workshop, don't despair, there is still some hope for it. Link to the fix: https://karincorbin.blogspot.com/2009/07/proxxon-table-saw-adjustment.html
  18. 2 points
    I age my blacksmith shop windows with real strong coffee or tea wash. Lay the window down flat and wash on around edges, let dry and apply again until you get the desired finish. You can dab in the middle lightly while still wet. Then use an artist flat fixative spray to hold it all in place. The fixative spray does not show, it is used on charcoal and such drawings to hold all in place. Be sure to get artist fixative not flat acrylic spray. You can also use India ink in a very light wash (this is more permanent and hard to remove) I also use sidewalk (poster) chalk. Wet a soft artist brush and rub it on the chalk to form a puddle on the chalk of the color you want. This can be wiped off so use fixative here too.
  19. 2 points
    One suggestion that may help: make a “dirty” wash by taking a small amount of white glue, like Elmer’s, and mix with acrylic paint like black and burnt sienna . You can dilute the paint with water to get the shade you want, then mix it with the glue. Paint this on your window and let dry. It can be rubbed with a cloth if you want to have a clean area like in the middle of the pane. Finely sifted hobby “dirt” like the kind you find in train stores, or cigarette ashes can be used in window corners depending on the look you want. You could experiment by painting a thin layer of the mixture on a scrap piece of glass at first.
  20. 2 points
    IMO, anything less than about 1/16" thick isn't going to be sturdy enough for your sofa. However - you can get much thinner veneer and glue together several layers. This is called a lamination. Thick wood doesn't bend easily but thin wood does; and a lamination allows you to get tighter curves. Your sofa looks like it has fairly tight curves so you might need to use a lamination. Your form will need to cover the wood on both the inside and outside of the curves (so you can press the lamination between the two pieces of the form). Put one layer of boiled/steamed wood around the "inner" form, slather another layer with glue, smooth it onto the first layer ... keep repeating until you have the desired thickness, then put on the "outer" form and clamp it all together until it is dry. Since it will be covered by the form on both sides it will dry slowly - leave it at least overnight if not longer. Waxed paper on both faces of the lamination is a good idea - keeps the lamination from getting glued to the form. Shape your upper rail after the wood comes out of the form - you won't be able to perfectly line up all the lamination layers and you will have to trim/shape the edges. You will get some amount of "springback" - when you remove your formed wood from the form, it will relax somewhat (i.e., spring back) and will be larger than the form. Best plan is to make the curves on your form a little tighter than your desired end piece. It's not to hard to force the bent wood into a slightly wider curve after it's formed, but it you try to force it into a tighter curve you're likely to break it. I can't tell you how much it's going to spring back - there are all kinds of calculations to predict that and I find that most of them aren't accurate with very thin layers of veneer. BTW, when you boil your wood, more is not better. Boiling it too long removes all the lignins from the wood and then it will crack/break and not bend. You will have to experiment with your wood to get the right timing - for 1/16" thick cherry 10 - 15 minutes seems to be about right for me. Longer than that and you are risking breakage. For thinner veneer I would guess 5-8 minutes - but that stuff cools so fast that you will need to have all your tools, supplies, molds, glues, etc. all arranged and laid out before you take your wood out of the pot.
  21. 2 points
    I have been busy making watering cans from flat sheet and wire. This week I got a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack. Which will make things a lot easier. I was burnishing those rings (on the can) in by hand.
  22. 2 points
    Catherine, how many girls can say they own a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack? That's what I love about this hobby so much! I love your watering can! gail
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    There is a story in my head about a man named Jeromy Pettigru. I've made up a whole environment for him that I will make in miniature. Of course I must start in the middle with this project. He lives in England in the year 1795 and owns a saddlery shop where he specializes in items for the fox hunter. Anyway, he is a chess player and so needs a chess set. After researching, I decided on an 18th century set (originally made in bone) that is described as the "tulip" design. I have never turned anything before or used a lathe, but have been practicing with my husband's metal lathe. I tried turning aluminum but could not get the shapes I wanted. Then tried acrylic rod. That went pretty well. Then went to wood dowels which I liked the best since I could use small files instead of gouges to produce shapes. After the basic shape was made an Xacto knife was used to carve details. A two part silicon putty mold material was used to make molds of the wood turnings. Mixed up a bone color from polymer clay - translucent, white and a little yellow. The pieces shown on the chess table are the finished castings. Still some carving to do. The intention is to get the pieces to a silicon mold where I can cast a whole set in resin. However, I DO like the look the polymer clay gives.
  25. 2 points
    Will post photos of this soon. Found a rocking horse in an antique consignment shop that is VERY old and in such great condition. Even the original saddle is on the horse WITH the stirrups and the leather colors. The bridle is gone, the tail (probably real horse hair) is gone and the mane is loved off. The ears are there though. The eyes are glass. The horse itself is covered in cow or goat skin with a pinto pattern and that is over a wood/carved frame with some unknown type of stuffing. I didn't see any bald spots or cracks or breaks at all on the skin/hair. The horse is on rockers but also on a base that has wheels so that it can come off the rockers and the children can ride it without staying in one place. This is all there, intact and WITH original colors/paint. My husband took measurements and cell phone photos which are distorted but I can work with them. We are going back tomorrow to move the "DO NOT RIDE" signs and get better photos.
  26. 2 points
    I have been turning very small items out of corian, it turns beautifully smooth with sharp tools. It comes in many colors, I bought small slabs from a knife makers supply shop that I cut into short square strips on my table saw and then turned it into round rods so that it will fit into collets.
  27. 2 points
    No, the clock is not a working one, although the hands of the dial are separate and were cut out of brass, fashioned, and then painted black. The window is of plate-glass. In that watch-works require adjusting and repair, especially as they age, I wasn't inspired to include one. It's a full dial, make no mistake, just like a real one, but with no mechanism. Even the Moon dial is a separate component, albeit incomplete if one was to rotate it. A close-up of the clock-face; the Moon is something of a self-portrait...
  28. 2 points
    The first floor is cut out... I don't have a table saw, but I do have an English-made(a bit odd, that) Makita® jigsaw, and their finest model some ten years ago or so when I purchased it... It works so well that it's almost a crime to own and operate one. I squared a fine-cut wood blade with the jigsaw's shoe, and whirred away. The foundation for the ground floor will be installed next, and to be footed. I have an 8' long 1" x 2" of clear pine for that, but I will need to make provisions for installing a row of mini two-pole on/off rocker switches, and so to turn the circuits on and off as desired. Scratch that 1x2, as I'll want to make the foundation a bit taller.
  29. 2 points
    It occurred to me that if you're planning to cast the original turned piece, blue or green jeweler's wax will hold excellent detail and the striations can be polished out with mineral spirits. I've turned almost paper thin plates and bowls out of it, and it's very strong. I haven't tried turning aluminum, but brass can be turned without striations with a bit of practice, and can be polished easily and quickly on the lathe with a flex shaft or Dremel followed by a rouge or polishing paste. Your queen looks spectacular!
  30. 2 points
    Thank you all. I lived in Midtown Memphis from 1983 to 1995. The location and day-to-day rambling about lent themselves well to inspiration, yes, indeed; the semi-ancient trees, and the homes built at the turn of the last century and throughout the 1920s. According to my list that I had compiled many years ago, the lingerie chest was actually the fourth, and preceded by a stained-basswood grandfather's clock, second, and a columned fireplace and mantle, third. I have no photos of either, unfortunately; particularly of the mantle, regrettably, as I think I had made it of cherry; perhaps, perhaps not. After the lingerie chest, I made a brass refractor mounted on a pyramidal stand, fifth, of either cherry or mahogany, which featured four carved brass animal feet. I made that one in three days, and it sold in three days once placed with my handler. To this day, I believe that a tiny speck of brass entered my eye whilst carving the feet. Sixth: the "Lion's Head" armoire, of cherry, limba and Carpathian elm burl... The work featured a revolving center-door, with it and the side-doors fitted with mirrors. A neighbour had given me her empty makeup compacts, and from whence I retrieved the mirrors. She preferred the larger compacts, apparently, and much to my benefit. When I make an armoire, it must come with a set of coat-hangers; no ifs, ands, or buts. The rod for hanging them, within the cabinet; I don't know if I had positioned it prior to the taking of the photograph, but it was installed nonetheless. I was told several years later that it and the lingerie chest were donated to the Children's Museum of Memphis, and by a daughter of the lady who had purchased them. I went by there, eventually, but the staff were in the midst of a remodel, and with everything stored away. I may visit again in future. A bit of steam-bending is evident... At the time that I created these miniatures, all I had to work with was a craft-knife, sandpaper of varying grits, and a Dremel jigsaw and rotary tool. I now have a Preac table-saw, a Foredom rotary, a baby and mini drill-presses, and all sorts of carving and grinding bits.
  31. 2 points
    Copy in oil on wood panel. John Constable. 1802.
  32. 2 points
    Hi Jason, I would love to have working door knobs and strike plates... period door knobs that work, would definitely spark joy for me! I would like dimensional hardware, we seem to still have access to stamped and etched hardware for Chippendale, but French hardware would be great, and Period Victorian hardware would be wonderful too.
  33. 2 points
    Hi WeekendMiniaturist, Yes! I made the table, too. It's based on a pattern from The Scale Cabinetmaker and is the second piece of furniture I've made. It needs to have it's finish though. I'll post a progress thread with photos for it soon.
  34. 2 points
    Hi WeekendMiniaturist, Thank you SO much for the reply. Got myself a caliper for precise measuring. I had thought of making polymer clay blanks to turn, but now it seems more fun to turn the set using what is close to the original material. I suspect the deer antler also will have a longer life than polymer clay. Like you, I have the most fun trying out different materials depending on the project. Different kinds of wood or metal (can't wait to try making hardware). I watched and read the entire posting of the spinning wheel(s). Jaw-dropping-amazing. However, I'm going with Option 3 - make a lot of the pieces and pick the ones that match. As you stated, it's good practice time and works to get a matched set.
  35. 2 points
    This is a copy I've made in oil of Rembrandts "The Mill" - about 49mm x 60mm. Which I think is roughly 1/17th of the original.
  36. 2 points
    This was my first try at a piece of furniture. http://megwalkeroriginals.blogspot.com/2014/12/
  37. 2 points
    I designed this 1830's chess and backgammon table after looking at lots of antique examples. I used only South African woods for this table, the main wood is candle wood and the chess and backgammon board is made of boxwood (we have our own indigenous species of boxwood that grows in the Cape Province) and blackwood. The backgammon pieces and dice are loose and can come out of their storage compartments. The drawer has individual compartments for the chess set that I still need to turn. The table top is reversable with a plain surface when not in use. This was one of my most challenging pieces to build to date.
  38. 2 points
    I made some goodies for my Taig. I made a simple holder that adapts a (cheap) dial indicator to measure travel on the Z-axis. This is the most useful thing *ever*. I just don't know how I ever lived without one! The holder mounts in the T-slot on the headstock using a T-slot plate. I made a square metal back that replaces the round back of the dial indicator. That new indicator back bolts onto the holder. This works fine with collets, but the dial indicator doesn't reach the cross slide when I use a chuck. So .... I tapped the bottom of the cross slide and made a little sliding block for the dial indicator to touch off against. (In the photos, you can also see the tool post I made for 1/8" bits). I used a full-sized Bridgeport mill to make these, but it could easily be made on any micro-mill (Taig, Sherline, Proxxon). Since I appropriated the T-slot, I can't put a travel stop bar in there, so I also made a dovetail block that clamps onto the ways to use as a travel stop. (The Lee Valley wood turning tool rest has a similar dovetail block, so I can clamp one on each side of the cross slide if I choose to.)
  39. 2 points
    If your brass is turning pink during and after pickling you pickle solution is contaminated or you are using steel tweezers or such. Avoid using anything steel or iron. Use brass or wood or plastic untangles and glass or plastic containers. .
  40. 2 points
    Hi, I'm Cath & I have been interested in miniatures from childhood. It broke my heart when my parents sold my dolls house to pay for a school trip! My next house was scratch built with help from hubby, but we were in process of moving & it was stored at his parents farm.....right when foot & mouth hit. House number three was a DHE Classical which firmly immersed me back in the mini world. That was sold a couple of years ago due to a lack of space & a massive interest in G&J Lines houses....I now have three of those, plus an Amersham house, DHW Preston Manor, DHE Cumberland Castle, a quarter scale Raven's Perch, three market stalls & a cabinet with antique dolls house furniture. I beleive there may be a divorce if another house lands!!! I love miniature needlepoint & am slowly teaching myself woodworking, although in all areas I can only aspire to the beautiful workmanship on here - but everyone started somewhere I guess. The attached picture shows copies of an antique bed & cabinet that I made
  41. 2 points
    In the April 2017 issue of Woodworkers Journal magazine there is an article about Marco Terenzi who specializes in making miniature tools that work. Most are 1/4 scale. I had never heard of him. His work is beautiful. Metal workers especially might be interested in taking a look at his website www.marcoterenzi.com . .
  42. 2 points
    We are getting ready to release the whole weekend details pretty soon. There will be the public activities held at the museum, Fri. to Sun. There will also be a IGMA sponsored party for the artists Thurs. and I will be hosting a open house/shop tour Sun. Evening.... Keep watching this forum for details.
  43. 2 points
    I see sweet volute carvings at the top of that chair. This is going to be fun watching your progress! >> From Elaine .... My large Georgian house with some of your chairs featured above (all except the red dining set) were featured in an article about me in Miniature Collector >magazine- July 2003.......... I got my MC's off the shelf, and I found your July 2003 issue, this is a beautiful structure, and I think I see the chairs in the dining room photo on page 25, if I find another Jul 2003 issue in my travels, I'll be sure to pick it up for you.
  44. 2 points
    I saw the times of events posted somewhere.............in any event I made reservations to attend show. This will be the first show I have attended in many years.The Friday night tickets are not yet on sale and go on sale May. Here is the link to that one : https://www.eventbrite.com/e/miniature-masterworks-preview-and-sale-tickets-31428160474
  45. 2 points
    >>>As small as this is it turned out to be a lot more work time wise than what I expected...so what else is new! EVERYONE in the forum should like this statement! Looks like a fun piece to create. KC is going to be an event to remember!
  46. 2 points
    Most of the drawers that I make in miniature has blind dovetails in the drawer fronts and up to now I have used inverted cone burrs for cutting the dovetails, but I have always felt that the angles are not steep enough to give a good result in 1/12 scale. So yesterday I tried my hand at making my own from oil hardening drill rod. I first turned them to size and shape on my lathe and the cut the teeth on my mill. Next came hardening and tempering them and then of course sharpening the teeth. I am pretty happy with the results off my first two cutters, you can see that the angle are steeper than the cut I made with the burr on the right. My cutters aren't pretty at all (be gentle, this is the first time I tried anything like this) and I guess time will tell how long they are going to last. I think next time I might try just two teeth that are a bit thicker.
  47. 2 points
    The Barbara Marshall Award for Artistic Achievement will honor three of the show's artists with large cash prizes for creating special works that "push the envelope" for fine miniatures. This will give the artists a chance to make that special piece they've had in mind, or maybe to try something they haven't done before. All works entered in the contest must be for sale at Miniature Masterworks, and all will be on display for the entire weekend. Several artists have already told us they have begun work on their contest entries. Don't miss this opportunity to see (and purchase) some truly incredible pieces!
  48. 2 points
    A pin routed piece is only as good as the jig you made by hand, it just helps you to duplicate parts and there are often lots of hand work that one still needs to do, so I still consider it handmade.
  49. 1 point
    In the red bar, at the top,you may notice the logo for the International Guild of Miniature Artisans. Our Guild exists since June 28, 1979 (among many reasons) to promote miniatures as a fine art form. IGMA is the sponsor of the Fine Miniature Forum... and offers study opportunities with many artisans that are recognized in our world... Some Artisans can produce excellent Art, and some Artisans can also teach and produce, so that combination of teaching and promoting the work of our artisans has allowed the IGMA to flourish... with learning activities and an annual show each year, where we can purchase from our Artisans. Guild School is on the top of my list of best learning experiences and best value for an incredibly short week in June each year in Castine, Maine. (I don't attend each year, but I have been fortunate to attend several times.) I am a general member of the guild, even though I am not listed on the website as a member. I haven't been to the KC Museum, yet, so I'm not sure who is represented in the paintings in the permanent collection, but it is my understand that the KC Museum has the largest collection of William R. Robertson's work... when I visit, I am sure I will be in awe, and am looking forward to seeing Twin Manors with my own eyes. Bill has many posts in the forum, too. The Masterworks event is a very special event, and the artists that I mentioned will be selling at the event in September 2017. Kaye Browning also has an incredible collection in Maysville, KY with exquisite paintings on display, it is worth the effort to get to Maysville, I have visited several times as this museum is closer to home. http://www.ksbminiaturescollection.com/ If you are new to the field and what to be wowed beyond belief, attend the Chicago International Show (www.Bishopshow.com) in April and then you can quickly understand the opportunities!
  50. 1 point
    Hi All, I'm Lynda, retired and now of Boston, MA finally doing more than just reading the forum. I've always made miniatures but until my first visit to a show in 2009, had no idea what high quality work was being done. It is also where I learned about IGMA and the Guild School. I fell in love with a silver piece beyond my budget and learned that I could take a class from Pete Aquisto. So 2010 was my first year at Castine and I've been back every year since. And I did eventually get that silver. Still waiting to get my workshop set up again. So many projects, so much to learn! Thanks to everyone sharing their knowledge. Lynda