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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Josje, my experience of finding in scale miniature pine or spruce is to always be on the hunt and have a stash. I found some at a local store that specializes in re-selling reclaimed / recycled building materials... you can look at old pieces of furniture at private sales, or even at the wood store... but just like silk, a stash is the way I've been accumulated in-scale miniature wood. The alternative is to contact someone who specializes in selling wood to miniaturists. Here in the USA, or for our international buyers if you want to import, I really recommend Steve & Mary Goode. http://shgoode.com/ Do tell all your friends locally, especially those in the wood working, furniture building business... they can be a great resource... just take a project with you and wow them... it never hurts to ask! I am lucky to have my own contact at a local cabinet shop, as my husband is a pro, and is always on the lookout for fine quartersawn wood for me. I even have a 1 piece of pine that he brought home has a few miniature knots... they look like tiny birdseye to me, and I know it isn't maple! I'm saving this piece for a very special project! if you cannot find suitable in-scale wood grain, you can alway faux paint the grain to get the effect you wish.
  2. 2 points
    At one time when I was younger and butch I had a mini-lathe which I could move about if necessary. I bought the Penn State Universal Duplicator which worked quite well. I sold the lathe when it became too much to lift, and purchased the Proxxon DB250 wood lathe. It is very light and meets my requirements for turning miniature columns. I couldn't find a duplicator accessory for this model so I built one. It is about half-size of the PSi one.
  3. 2 points
    The mini knots are perfect; and the color of the floors has warmth and great visual appeal! The floors look lifesize! This is a great example of beautiful floors.
  4. 2 points
    No more (ahem, additional) projects. Right? (laughing). This year, my building was going to be an 18th century English cottage/Georgian with a saddlery shop on the first floor catering to fox hunters. To kill some time while waiting for our dog to be finished at the vet, my husband and I went to breakfast and still had some time after that. So we went to a resale shop we had never been to, just down the street from the vet. We walked around and when we came to the washing machines, I stopped. My mind was processing something I thought I saw on the floor as we came in. A dollhouse? Had to have been a Barbie house. Or something like that. Plastic? I went back and examined it. No, it was wood and 1:12 scale. The more I looked, the more I liked it. Then told myself I did not NEED another project. To leave it there. The lady working there said it was $50 and came with a bag of furniture. FOOOM! It was in my car. The dog had to share the seat with it going home.
  5. 2 points
    Josje, as promised. I finished mine with a couple of coats of Watco Danish Oil, but other finishes could certainly give a more rustic look. I just love the patina and the tiny knots! Martha in Louisiana, USA
  6. 2 points
    Josje, I needed old cypress or heart pine for flooring in an 1850 plantation room. I worked with the Goodes (Tamra's recommendation) and he found the perfect species of yew. I asked him to give me as many knots as he could and he delivered! I just love it! I'm not home now, but can post a picture tomorrow. Martha in Louisiana
  7. 2 points
    Hi Josje, I have bought most of my miniature wood from www.wood-supplies.com (in England, a bit closer to The Netherlands). They have many different kinds and most have a detailed description of their possible uses. They have pine with miniature knots specifically for flooring. Hope you find what you need, Idske
  8. 2 points
    I have the real thing...it actually is spruce and it has in-scale knots. It is spruce from Canada, found some boards of it at a local Seattle, USA lumber supply. Here is an image of the wood with a ruler next to it along with a 1:12 scale window and door. I was cutting it up into wide plank flooring which was suitable for the era of the project. So basically you can find spruce planks with tiny knots but I had to sort through a stack of boards to find them. Most of the boards had larger knots and grain. The trees from the cold, far northern climates grow much more slowly and have these tight growth rings with very small knots. So where the trees are sourced from does matter a lot. Wood from Siberia, Alaska, northern Canada, Norway, the European alps, etc are more likely to be suitable for in-scale projects. For sourcing some in Europe try the keywords "alpine spruce", "German Spruce", "Austrian Spruce", Russian Spruce". It is pretty easy to find very tight grained spruce wood from luthier sources where it is called Tonewood but typically tonewood is sold as clear lumber with no knots in it because they would interfere with the acoustic property of the timber. But the nice thing about tonewood, it comes in wide but thin planks! I have a lot of those planks on hand and some are even quarter sawn. I did some 3D CAD work for a specialty lumber mill that makes tonewoods for the guitar industry so I got to take as much as I wanted from their "seconds" piles. All that wood was sourced from Alaska.
  9. 2 points
    I think it partly depends on where you are in the world and the piece you happen to get. Colin Bird made beautiful tables long ago out of some pear he had with tiny knots in it. It was very much in scale with gorgeous wood grain.
  10. 2 points
    You might find this interesting. http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/20-PIECE-TOOL-SET-WALLET/productinfo/301001/ I have this set and it is about the only one I use now. They are not fancy smancy looking but the steel is very good and holds an edge. I find the handles easy to hold. These or similar are used by many Japanese carvers and carving teachers. My seat has about three sizes of each style from micro to larger. http://www.woodworkerz.com/wicked-sharp/ http://ornamental-woodcarver-patrickdamiaens.blogspot.be/search/label/'17th Century style carvings' Check out his blogs along the right hand side of his page. Hours of looking at awesome stuff. https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-carving/projects/relief-carving/architectural/grinling-gibbons-style-foliage/
  11. 2 points
    I have used bass wood for sculpting larger thing like the front door on my dollhouse. I found that fine blades that may come with a exacto type knife work very well with this type of wood, gouges not so much. If I want to do a very complex carving with scooped out designs I will try to get my hands on pear wood which is a pleasure to work with. I have included a photo of sculpting done on basswood with a exacto knife and various small knives. This project is still going on, may be finish by next year!!!
  12. 2 points
    To avoid oozing apply masking tape along the edge of the plex. Leave about half of the dado depth showing of plex. Once caulking is set up just run a sharp knife along the edge of the frame cutting through the tape and just peel it off.
  13. 1 point
    Congratulations on the new website; I like the new tone of yellow change to the golden tones. Websites seem like a lot of work while someone is working, but I'm sure it helps people find your business. Congrats on the update and it is nice to see you pop into the forum.
  14. 1 point
    Hey... there might be another option. Nickelodeon toys used to offer something called "Floam" which was a lightweight styrofoam sculpting medium. I think these things are smaller than styrofoam insulation. Jason
  15. 1 point
    I have never measured popcorn before but if Popcorn in life size is 1", then popcorn in 1/12th would be .08333 1/8" = .1250 So I think 1/8" stryrofoam is 1/3 too large. I think the only way to make realistic popcorn, is to make it. Crayola Air Dry Clay is very easy to work with, it isn't messy. It can stick to your hands but some baking powder or baby powder eliminates the sticking to your hands. You can use an old ball nose end mill to make the cavities of the popped popcorn.
  16. 1 point
    Some good instructions for stick building would be The Scale Cabinetmaker Issues 6:4 - 7:3 where they built the store. I still want to build that project. But of course can’t start that any time soon.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Elga, I will gladly accept your offer in Chicago... I will stop by the booth, as I already know where you will be located. I am thinking my tip of the duplicator's cutter should be similar in shape as the diamond shape like this... I will look at the cutters on the anker, and vega duplicators. http://www.rockler.com/diamond-carbide-mini-turning-tool-replacement-cutter Tamra
  18. 1 point
    Catherine, you are absolutely correct on region... but I think the wood treasure hunt is the same as my silk fabric hunt... If I lived in the Northeast or Northwest, I know I would have a serious wood stash... We have great access here locally native wood for life size projects, just not a lot of options for imported woods, so we visit the local woodworking store through the year for fine grain boards. I did keep a cherry tree that fell in our sons yard - and this past year, I finally found someone with a saw locally that can cut it for me so I can dry it properly; I am hoping that it was a slow growing tree... our son talked me (us) into working and cleaning up the mess and I got the tree... seemed like a good deal at the time for one of us... If it is fine grain, though I probably got enough cherry for a lot of mini projects.
  19. 1 point
    I would suggest looking at vertical grain Douglas fir. If you can get closer to the sapwood the grain is finer and the color varies.
  20. 1 point
    Thank you! I do have a stash of wood which I have saved or which was given to me, just not pine. I have a contact in luxury yacht building, but they never use pine for their cabinets. Plus it is not a popular wood here at all at the moment. Unfortunately I don't have too much time to search for the right piece of wood. So I rather hoped there would be some other sort of wood which could be passed off as scale pine. Yes, faux painting is possible although I have tried that before and didn't like my results very much. I'll keep searching!
  21. 1 point

    until

    Don't forget to visit the Gallery of The Guild and the IGMA tables. IGMA Auction and talk......
  22. 1 point
    Good point, Nell, as our humidity here in Louisiana is very high most of the year. The orchids were live miniature orchids and she kept them alive several years! I even have the names of the species because it was a part of the display. I don’t think she ever watered them in the mini greenhouse. I made the roof removeable so she could get them in and out. I have tried silicone, but it was so thick that there was a lot of visible gunk. Any tips on getting a thin enough bead of silicone so that it doesn’t ooze onto the plexiglass? I said it was 30 years old, but am realizing that it is probably 40 years old! Martha
  23. 1 point
    First I have to build the mini kiln for the Greek pieces, and then cross your fingers that handles on amphoras will survive the firing! I will probably chicken out and stick to handle-less black burnished ware for the first firing with maybe one or two sacrificial offerings with handles. It's darned cold here, even in NC, and I think I"ll wait for warming spell before playing outside. Happy Mini and Maxi New Year. Keep in touch about your pottery class!
  24. 1 point
    As a colophon, I invite you to read the article "the transforming power of light" that Auralea Krieger has written in Dollhouse Miniatures Magazine about my lamps in the latest issue nº 43 (January-February 2015)
  25. 1 point
    Wonderful work Bill, I love how the anvil is strapped down onto the tree stump, have never seen that before...of course I am a city girl and don't know much about horses or blacksmiths :-)