• Announcements

    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      
    • WeekendMiniaturist

      AmazonSmile   05/02/2018

      AmazonSmile is a website operated by Amazon with the same products, prices and shopping features as Amazon.com. The difference is that when you shop on AmazonSmile, the Amazon Smile Foundation will donate 0.5% of the purchase price of eligible products to the charitable organization of your choice.  Every item available for purchase on Amazon is also available on Amazon Smile (smile.amazon.com) at the same price.  It will ask you what charity you want to support; you can search for the International Guild of Miniature Artisans, and then select it.
    • WeekendMiniaturist

      Dick Blick   05/02/2018

      http://www.igma.org/donate.html If you visit Blick Art Materials by following this link or clicking on the image below, IGMA will get 10% of the sale. If you don't have a local store, then you are only a click away from access to some of the most wonderful art supplies!      
    • WeekendMiniaturist

      Goodsearch/Goodshop   05/02/2018

      When you use goodsearch.com or goodshop.com as your search engine, they will give money to charity every time you shop or search. Instead of www.google.com (or Bing, Yahoo, Safari, etc.) use www.goodsearch.com. If using for the first time, there's a place on the top middle right of the screen to designate the cause you want to support. IGMA will get the credit for every search from this browser. If you want to shop, click on the top left of the screen and search for the online store you want to buy from. If that vendor participates, click on their link and their software keeps track of what you buy.


  1. WeekendMiniaturist



    • Points


    • Content count


  2. CollieFeathers



    • Points


    • Content count


  3. ElgaKoster



    • Points


    • Content count


  4. Bill Hudson

    Bill Hudson


    • Points


    • Content count


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 05/27/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Look at THIS! Laughing witches, complete with bat wings, spider's web and a gorgeous background. This will HAVE to be the doors of a wardrobe for a haunted dollhouse one day.
  2. 4 points
    Hi Missy, Looking for a different wire type and came across .006" diam .152 mm music wire/ spring wire. Wasn't sure how fine you had found: http://www.travers.com/wire/p/87454/?keyword=music wire And a maker of tiny springs: http://www.drtempleman.com/coil-springs/miniature-springs The above also sells tiny springs, compression conical for just over a buck each, compression pricier at $3+ for tiny A truly excellent description of making tiny compression springs using a small lathe: http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/springs/springs.html And a three part that also mentions straightening the music wire before coiling if it was previously coiled: http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=247 torsion spring: http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=276 I'd love to see pictures of your spring progress!
  3. 3 points
    After a long search I managed to find fir wood with tiny knots. Although it doesn't show the cathedral grain (it would have been too much out of scale) because I cut it on the vertical grain, it is perfect for my project (a drying attic). Thank you all for your help!
  4. 3 points
    1910 Cretors popcorn wagon. Test fitting various parts for alignment.
  5. 3 points
    Josje, my experience of finding in scale miniature pine or spruce is to always be on the hunt and have a stash. I found some at a local store that specializes in re-selling reclaimed / recycled building materials... you can look at old pieces of furniture at private sales, or even at the wood store... but just like silk, a stash is the way I've been accumulated in-scale miniature wood. The alternative is to contact someone who specializes in selling wood to miniaturists. Here in the USA, or for our international buyers if you want to import, I really recommend Steve & Mary Goode. http://shgoode.com/ Do tell all your friends locally, especially those in the wood working, furniture building business... they can be a great resource... just take a project with you and wow them... it never hurts to ask! I am lucky to have my own contact at a local cabinet shop, as my husband is a pro, and is always on the lookout for fine quartersawn wood for me. I even have a 1 piece of pine that he brought home has a few miniature knots... they look like tiny birdseye to me, and I know it isn't maple! I'm saving this piece for a very special project! if you cannot find suitable in-scale wood grain, you can alway faux paint the grain to get the effect you wish.
  6. 3 points
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2018!!
  7. 3 points
    This was the first project I made in a metals class in art school. The assignment was to fabricate something in metal. Using forming and silver soldering techniques. I chose to make a 1: 12 scale teapot on a stand. The stand was made of sterling silver square wire because I needed that gauge and sterling was all I had. The flower cup holder (for the burner) was cut out of a dapped piece of sterling with a jewelers saw. When finished, the stand was oxidized to make it look like wrought iron. The body of the teapot is brass and was made of two dapped pieces soldered together. I wanted a tapered hollow spout and the only way I knew to make it at that time was to electroform it. I made a wax interior shape and painted a conductor on it. Then literally grew copper over the wax. Once I had enough copper built up on the wax, I was able to melt out the wax and solder the spout on the brass pot. The teapot had to be gold plated. The burner was made out of telescoping tubes and sheet brass and gold plated. The wood knob and handle are ebony. More 40 years later this first project makes me blush/cringe a bit. I made five of these pieces. Dearing and Tracy (miniature dealers from the 1970's) sold all the other ones for me. I have often wondered what happened to Dearing & Tracey. They had beautiful miniatures at the time.
  8. 3 points
    And this rocker is like the one in the catalog. Had a hard time doing the mortise and tenon joints for the curved back slats - and get the back seat rail in there at the same time. Before the glue got tacky enough to make things stick together and hold, the rocker would explode all over the floor and table. And then the glue would be too dry, or too wet again and another explosion would happen. Tried doing butt joints instead of mortising for the seat rails and that didn't help. May have made things worse as it was very slippy. I'm going to give myself some credit as this rocker had NO right angles whatsoever. Learned a lot of new techniques though.
  9. 3 points
    Here is a dwarf rabbit Rex 1:12 Find our creations on latelierdunain.com
  10. 3 points
    Progress! The rooks and knights are finished. On to the bishops.
  11. 3 points
    CF, the calipers are a great tool. In Elga's Queen Anne Writing Chair class this year at Guild School, we used calipers to keep consistent in not only turning, but when using the milling machine/drill press and when hand sanding. I gained a great deal of confidence in actually making pieces that looked the same. If you are still comfortable with Tamara's Option 3, the calipers can help you choose the pieces that are most closely matched. This has been an interesting thread and your work is beautiful! Martha in Louisiana
  12. 3 points
    Here is my smallest to date. I used a a cat whisker to paint the rigging. I had read that this was done at one time. I had a hard time holding the cat down while moving his head back and forth to paint but eventually got it done. That was just a little joke. No cat was harmed.
  13. 2 points
    Yes, it was me And it was a wood carved Hitty... Don't know inches, she is about 3 cm tall
  14. 2 points
    I needed some very small C clamps. Made these from aluminum bar and 2-56 bolts. I cut three segments from off the shelf aluminum bar and epoxied then in a sandwich. I set it up in my sherline mill and milled out the slot. Then milled the blanks down to shape. I finished them off with a file. These were made for utility purpose so not refined.
  15. 2 points
    In response to your request for more postings, here are some pics of a 1:8 scale roll-top desk. Constructed of Mahogany and Poplar because I already had these materials, but a tighter grain wood should have been used. Most difficult part to make was the tambour top. The drawers have dovetails but since they were made using an inverse cone cutter, they don't have the correct angle. I haven't started on the chair yet. Cheers, Guy
  16. 2 points
    At one time when I was younger and butch I had a mini-lathe which I could move about if necessary. I bought the Penn State Universal Duplicator which worked quite well. I sold the lathe when it became too much to lift, and purchased the Proxxon DB250 wood lathe. It is very light and meets my requirements for turning miniature columns. I couldn't find a duplicator accessory for this model so I built one. It is about half-size of the PSi one.
  17. 2 points
    The mini knots are perfect; and the color of the floors has warmth and great visual appeal! The floors look lifesize! This is a great example of beautiful floors.
  18. 2 points
    Josje, as promised. I finished mine with a couple of coats of Watco Danish Oil, but other finishes could certainly give a more rustic look. I just love the patina and the tiny knots! Martha in Louisiana, USA
  19. 2 points
    Josje, I needed old cypress or heart pine for flooring in an 1850 plantation room. I worked with the Goodes (Tamra's recommendation) and he found the perfect species of yew. I asked him to give me as many knots as he could and he delivered! I just love it! I'm not home now, but can post a picture tomorrow. Martha in Louisiana
  20. 2 points
    Hi Josje, I have bought most of my miniature wood from www.wood-supplies.com (in England, a bit closer to The Netherlands). They have many different kinds and most have a detailed description of their possible uses. They have pine with miniature knots specifically for flooring. Hope you find what you need, Idske
  21. 2 points
    I have the real thing...it actually is spruce and it has in-scale knots. It is spruce from Canada, found some boards of it at a local Seattle, USA lumber supply. Here is an image of the wood with a ruler next to it along with a 1:12 scale window and door. I was cutting it up into wide plank flooring which was suitable for the era of the project. So basically you can find spruce planks with tiny knots but I had to sort through a stack of boards to find them. Most of the boards had larger knots and grain. The trees from the cold, far northern climates grow much more slowly and have these tight growth rings with very small knots. So where the trees are sourced from does matter a lot. Wood from Siberia, Alaska, northern Canada, Norway, the European alps, etc are more likely to be suitable for in-scale projects. For sourcing some in Europe try the keywords "alpine spruce", "German Spruce", "Austrian Spruce", Russian Spruce". It is pretty easy to find very tight grained spruce wood from luthier sources where it is called Tonewood but typically tonewood is sold as clear lumber with no knots in it because they would interfere with the acoustic property of the timber. But the nice thing about tonewood, it comes in wide but thin planks! I have a lot of those planks on hand and some are even quarter sawn. I did some 3D CAD work for a specialty lumber mill that makes tonewoods for the guitar industry so I got to take as much as I wanted from their "seconds" piles. All that wood was sourced from Alaska.
  22. 2 points
    I think it partly depends on where you are in the world and the piece you happen to get. Colin Bird made beautiful tables long ago out of some pear he had with tiny knots in it. It was very much in scale with gorgeous wood grain.
  23. 2 points
    You might find this interesting. http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/20-PIECE-TOOL-SET-WALLET/productinfo/301001/ I have this set and it is about the only one I use now. They are not fancy smancy looking but the steel is very good and holds an edge. I find the handles easy to hold. These or similar are used by many Japanese carvers and carving teachers. My seat has about three sizes of each style from micro to larger. http://www.woodworkerz.com/wicked-sharp/ http://ornamental-woodcarver-patrickdamiaens.blogspot.be/search/label/'17th Century style carvings' Check out his blogs along the right hand side of his page. Hours of looking at awesome stuff. https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-carving/projects/relief-carving/architectural/grinling-gibbons-style-foliage/
  24. 2 points
    To avoid oozing apply masking tape along the edge of the plex. Leave about half of the dado depth showing of plex. Once caulking is set up just run a sharp knife along the edge of the frame cutting through the tape and just peel it off.
  25. 2 points
    The Frame looks good, you are making good progress. You may want to consider trying your color / staining experiments on uncarved wood. The original frame is strange to me, as it looks barn weathered and not finished at all, as my fussy expectations for a frame would be, for a masterpiece hanging in a museum. My Grandmother was a painter and she participated in the Artistic Community in New Mexico when I was in my teenage years. She loved barn weathered wood for her frames, and while the original is carved ornately for this Van Gogh, it doesn't appear to be finished, it appears to the weathered.... this is a whole other set of techniques. Noel & Pat Thomas are the experts on weathered techniques in our miniature community... if you go back to the KC Toy and Miniature Museum, they have one of their structures on display, and then you can read their articles in Nutshell News or read Pat's blog... http://www.thomasopenhouse.com/ If these techniques are of interest to study, the model railroaders have lots of articles and publications on weathering... I even have one of their books somewhere in my piles of books, so may find some useful info at your library.
  26. 2 points
    The hardest part of being a miniaturist is deciding which details to leave out and let the mind's eye fill in the blanks. The artist gets to decide on the details you omit, and as you indicated, Van Gogh didn't give the guy feet under the table!
  27. 2 points
    Working on a 1/12 scale Shetland Pony. Will post progress photos. Equine miniatures are a specialty but this is the first one I've done 100% from scratch and felted. Having a lot of fun with him. I have visions of paring him with a porcelain child doll. He is 3 inches at the shoulder.
  28. 2 points
    I haven't done much sculpting with polymer clay. Partly because I hate how soft it is. I am very glad to hear that there is a new clay coming out soon with much better working qualities. These are two resent pieces I made in 1: 12 scale. The goose is flocked with pure silk embroidery floss I cut into dust. The feathers are white turkey. The rabbits coat is Alpaca.
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    I know I am replying to an older post from 2015. But while rereading this thread I noticed the issues above. This can indeed be an issue with the tilt arbor Microlux saw and also with the tilt arbor Proxxon saw. Both of those saws are made in the same factory in Japan and built using most of the same parts. A few years back I purchased a used Proxxon saw from craigslist and it had cutting problems. So I got out my measuring tools and discovered that the saw blade was not parallel to the miter slots in the table top which of course also meant parallel issues to the fence. As I quickly discovered there was no way to adjust the alignment of the arbor mounts that hold the blade in position. Of course I could not return a used table saw so I started taking things apart and made it adjustable While I was doing that I took the time to document the process and post it on my blog. So even if you have one of these defective tilt arbor saws that came out of the factory being misaligned and it is sitting on a shelf in your workshop, don't despair, there is still some hope for it. Link to the fix: https://karincorbin.blogspot.com/2009/07/proxxon-table-saw-adjustment.html
  31. 2 points
    I age my blacksmith shop windows with real strong coffee or tea wash. Lay the window down flat and wash on around edges, let dry and apply again until you get the desired finish. You can dab in the middle lightly while still wet. Then use an artist flat fixative spray to hold it all in place. The fixative spray does not show, it is used on charcoal and such drawings to hold all in place. Be sure to get artist fixative not flat acrylic spray. You can also use India ink in a very light wash (this is more permanent and hard to remove) I also use sidewalk (poster) chalk. Wet a soft artist brush and rub it on the chalk to form a puddle on the chalk of the color you want. This can be wiped off so use fixative here too.
  32. 2 points
    One suggestion that may help: make a “dirty” wash by taking a small amount of white glue, like Elmer’s, and mix with acrylic paint like black and burnt sienna . You can dilute the paint with water to get the shade you want, then mix it with the glue. Paint this on your window and let dry. It can be rubbed with a cloth if you want to have a clean area like in the middle of the pane. Finely sifted hobby “dirt” like the kind you find in train stores, or cigarette ashes can be used in window corners depending on the look you want. You could experiment by painting a thin layer of the mixture on a scrap piece of glass at first.
  33. 2 points
    IMO, anything less than about 1/16" thick isn't going to be sturdy enough for your sofa. However - you can get much thinner veneer and glue together several layers. This is called a lamination. Thick wood doesn't bend easily but thin wood does; and a lamination allows you to get tighter curves. Your sofa looks like it has fairly tight curves so you might need to use a lamination. Your form will need to cover the wood on both the inside and outside of the curves (so you can press the lamination between the two pieces of the form). Put one layer of boiled/steamed wood around the "inner" form, slather another layer with glue, smooth it onto the first layer ... keep repeating until you have the desired thickness, then put on the "outer" form and clamp it all together until it is dry. Since it will be covered by the form on both sides it will dry slowly - leave it at least overnight if not longer. Waxed paper on both faces of the lamination is a good idea - keeps the lamination from getting glued to the form. Shape your upper rail after the wood comes out of the form - you won't be able to perfectly line up all the lamination layers and you will have to trim/shape the edges. You will get some amount of "springback" - when you remove your formed wood from the form, it will relax somewhat (i.e., spring back) and will be larger than the form. Best plan is to make the curves on your form a little tighter than your desired end piece. It's not to hard to force the bent wood into a slightly wider curve after it's formed, but it you try to force it into a tighter curve you're likely to break it. I can't tell you how much it's going to spring back - there are all kinds of calculations to predict that and I find that most of them aren't accurate with very thin layers of veneer. BTW, when you boil your wood, more is not better. Boiling it too long removes all the lignins from the wood and then it will crack/break and not bend. You will have to experiment with your wood to get the right timing - for 1/16" thick cherry 10 - 15 minutes seems to be about right for me. Longer than that and you are risking breakage. For thinner veneer I would guess 5-8 minutes - but that stuff cools so fast that you will need to have all your tools, supplies, molds, glues, etc. all arranged and laid out before you take your wood out of the pot.
  34. 2 points
    I have been busy making watering cans from flat sheet and wire. This week I got a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack. Which will make things a lot easier. I was burnishing those rings (on the can) in by hand.
  35. 2 points
    Catherine, how many girls can say they own a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack? That's what I love about this hobby so much! I love your watering can! gail
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    There is a story in my head about a man named Jeromy Pettigru. I've made up a whole environment for him that I will make in miniature. Of course I must start in the middle with this project. He lives in England in the year 1795 and owns a saddlery shop where he specializes in items for the fox hunter. Anyway, he is a chess player and so needs a chess set. After researching, I decided on an 18th century set (originally made in bone) that is described as the "tulip" design. I have never turned anything before or used a lathe, but have been practicing with my husband's metal lathe. I tried turning aluminum but could not get the shapes I wanted. Then tried acrylic rod. That went pretty well. Then went to wood dowels which I liked the best since I could use small files instead of gouges to produce shapes. After the basic shape was made an Xacto knife was used to carve details. A two part silicon putty mold material was used to make molds of the wood turnings. Mixed up a bone color from polymer clay - translucent, white and a little yellow. The pieces shown on the chess table are the finished castings. Still some carving to do. The intention is to get the pieces to a silicon mold where I can cast a whole set in resin. However, I DO like the look the polymer clay gives.
  38. 2 points
    Will post photos of this soon. Found a rocking horse in an antique consignment shop that is VERY old and in such great condition. Even the original saddle is on the horse WITH the stirrups and the leather colors. The bridle is gone, the tail (probably real horse hair) is gone and the mane is loved off. The ears are there though. The eyes are glass. The horse itself is covered in cow or goat skin with a pinto pattern and that is over a wood/carved frame with some unknown type of stuffing. I didn't see any bald spots or cracks or breaks at all on the skin/hair. The horse is on rockers but also on a base that has wheels so that it can come off the rockers and the children can ride it without staying in one place. This is all there, intact and WITH original colors/paint. My husband took measurements and cell phone photos which are distorted but I can work with them. We are going back tomorrow to move the "DO NOT RIDE" signs and get better photos.
  39. 2 points
    I have been turning very small items out of corian, it turns beautifully smooth with sharp tools. It comes in many colors, I bought small slabs from a knife makers supply shop that I cut into short square strips on my table saw and then turned it into round rods so that it will fit into collets.
  40. 2 points
    No, the clock is not a working one, although the hands of the dial are separate and were cut out of brass, fashioned, and then painted black. The window is of plate-glass. In that watch-works require adjusting and repair, especially as they age, I wasn't inspired to include one. It's a full dial, make no mistake, just like a real one, but with no mechanism. Even the Moon dial is a separate component, albeit incomplete if one was to rotate it. A close-up of the clock-face; the Moon is something of a self-portrait...
  41. 2 points
    The first floor is cut out... I don't have a table saw, but I do have an English-made(a bit odd, that) Makita® jigsaw, and their finest model some ten years ago or so when I purchased it... It works so well that it's almost a crime to own and operate one. I squared a fine-cut wood blade with the jigsaw's shoe, and whirred away. The foundation for the ground floor will be installed next, and to be footed. I have an 8' long 1" x 2" of clear pine for that, but I will need to make provisions for installing a row of mini two-pole on/off rocker switches, and so to turn the circuits on and off as desired. Scratch that 1x2, as I'll want to make the foundation a bit taller.
  42. 2 points
    It occurred to me that if you're planning to cast the original turned piece, blue or green jeweler's wax will hold excellent detail and the striations can be polished out with mineral spirits. I've turned almost paper thin plates and bowls out of it, and it's very strong. I haven't tried turning aluminum, but brass can be turned without striations with a bit of practice, and can be polished easily and quickly on the lathe with a flex shaft or Dremel followed by a rouge or polishing paste. Your queen looks spectacular!
  43. 2 points
    Thank you all. I lived in Midtown Memphis from 1983 to 1995. The location and day-to-day rambling about lent themselves well to inspiration, yes, indeed; the semi-ancient trees, and the homes built at the turn of the last century and throughout the 1920s. According to my list that I had compiled many years ago, the lingerie chest was actually the fourth, and preceded by a stained-basswood grandfather's clock, second, and a columned fireplace and mantle, third. I have no photos of either, unfortunately; particularly of the mantle, regrettably, as I think I had made it of cherry; perhaps, perhaps not. After the lingerie chest, I made a brass refractor mounted on a pyramidal stand, fifth, of either cherry or mahogany, which featured four carved brass animal feet. I made that one in three days, and it sold in three days once placed with my handler. To this day, I believe that a tiny speck of brass entered my eye whilst carving the feet. Sixth: the "Lion's Head" armoire, of cherry, limba and Carpathian elm burl... The work featured a revolving center-door, with it and the side-doors fitted with mirrors. A neighbour had given me her empty makeup compacts, and from whence I retrieved the mirrors. She preferred the larger compacts, apparently, and much to my benefit. When I make an armoire, it must come with a set of coat-hangers; no ifs, ands, or buts. The rod for hanging them, within the cabinet; I don't know if I had positioned it prior to the taking of the photograph, but it was installed nonetheless. I was told several years later that it and the lingerie chest were donated to the Children's Museum of Memphis, and by a daughter of the lady who had purchased them. I went by there, eventually, but the staff were in the midst of a remodel, and with everything stored away. I may visit again in future. A bit of steam-bending is evident... At the time that I created these miniatures, all I had to work with was a craft-knife, sandpaper of varying grits, and a Dremel jigsaw and rotary tool. I now have a Preac table-saw, a Foredom rotary, a baby and mini drill-presses, and all sorts of carving and grinding bits.
  44. 2 points
    Copy in oil on wood panel. John Constable. 1802.
  45. 2 points
    Hi Jason, I would love to have working door knobs and strike plates... period door knobs that work, would definitely spark joy for me! I would like dimensional hardware, we seem to still have access to stamped and etched hardware for Chippendale, but French hardware would be great, and Period Victorian hardware would be wonderful too.
  46. 2 points
    Hi WeekendMiniaturist, Yes! I made the table, too. It's based on a pattern from The Scale Cabinetmaker and is the second piece of furniture I've made. It needs to have it's finish though. I'll post a progress thread with photos for it soon.
  47. 2 points
    Hi WeekendMiniaturist, Thank you SO much for the reply. Got myself a caliper for precise measuring. I had thought of making polymer clay blanks to turn, but now it seems more fun to turn the set using what is close to the original material. I suspect the deer antler also will have a longer life than polymer clay. Like you, I have the most fun trying out different materials depending on the project. Different kinds of wood or metal (can't wait to try making hardware). I watched and read the entire posting of the spinning wheel(s). Jaw-dropping-amazing. However, I'm going with Option 3 - make a lot of the pieces and pick the ones that match. As you stated, it's good practice time and works to get a matched set.
  48. 2 points
    This is a copy I've made in oil of Rembrandts "The Mill" - about 49mm x 60mm. Which I think is roughly 1/17th of the original.
  49. 2 points
    This was my first try at a piece of furniture. http://megwalkeroriginals.blogspot.com/2014/12/
  50. 2 points
    I designed this 1830's chess and backgammon table after looking at lots of antique examples. I used only South African woods for this table, the main wood is candle wood and the chess and backgammon board is made of boxwood (we have our own indigenous species of boxwood that grows in the Cape Province) and blackwood. The backgammon pieces and dice are loose and can come out of their storage compartments. The drawer has individual compartments for the chess set that I still need to turn. The table top is reversable with a plain surface when not in use. This was one of my most challenging pieces to build to date.