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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/17/2014 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    My friend and fellow poster on the forum, Althea, had a project in mind that required some lathe work. She is a knitter, not one that normally uses machine tools or works to tolerances of a thousandth of inch. But like many skilled artists she took to this like a duck to water...... She wanted to do sort of face plate type turning so I set her up with a lathe I made based on a classic Japanese design with the spindle facing the operator. I used a Taig headstock and a jewelers 6 jaw bezel chuck.... It is a sweet little lathe for this kind of work..... And to start off, I feel you have to get a lesson in the basic proportion of turnings, and the best place to start is with Plumier's book from 1701, it was the first book ever written solely about the lathe and I happen to have a rare first edition..... So her she is studying a 313 year book...... And turning...... And success!
  2. 8 points
    Forming the spout.
Cut you spout out using a pattern and lay the flat spout along the mold. Press the mandrel down into the metal, forming it to the mold. Bend the rest of the spout over the mandrel and tap it down on the mandrel forming the joint. Remove the spout and coat it with flux and tin the whole thing. Wiring.
To strengthen and finish off tin ware the edges are wired. That is you will see that the top edge of a bucket is rounded off. This is done by wrapping the edge around a wire. That is nearly impossible in miniature. I use wire, just plain brass beading wire. I tin the wire, wrap it a couple times around a smaller dowel to form a ring and then solder the ring on the top edge of the bucket. It is that simple. Well not quite! Using a couple of feet of 26 gauge brass beading wire clamp one end in a vise, grab the other end with pliers and pull on it, stretching the wire a couple of inches. This straightens out the wire and hardens it. Then flux the wire and tin it. Wrap the wire around a smaller dowel than the diameter you need. Make several rings; wrap one ring around the top of the bucket so that the joint mates up with the bucket seam. Tack the wire in place in several places. Lay it top side down on the soldering block or a smooth block of hard wood and run a solder fillet around the bottom side of the wire. When you turn the bucket backup run your iron around the wire and bucket joint. This will draw the solder up. Finish off with a file. Hope this is helpful. Copyright 2014 ~Bill Hudson.~
  3. 7 points
    I haven't posted much lately because I have been busy working in the shop. One of the pieces I have recently finished was a copy of a 17th c. Dutch Strong Box. One way to describe this might be 2 1/4" of insanity. I'll show a few photos of the finished box and then some process shots in the shop. Wouldn't this make a great tool chest? The box has a Bolivian rosewood interior with drawers and secret compartments, the outside is veneered in burl with a pattern similar to oystering with cross banding. About 80% of the exterior is then covered by 13 fancy brasses and edges. The stand was carved in boxwood and gilded by Master miniature carver Lloyd McCaffery' The working lock is double action, locking both the top and drop front.
  4. 6 points
    I joined up with Elga in Copenhagen after Tune....... We have been on a non stop whirlwind tour of this city from its main sights to back allies, all by bicycle! I sure we'll have more pictures when we get them downloaded. But now for a small world story..... Last night we were sitting out on the street at a little restaurant on sort of a back street..... And here you do sit out in the street. Anyway a constant stream of people walk by as you sit enjoying perfect weather, food and company. I look up and see a woman walking by alone and think, wow she really does look like someone I have talked to many times at miniature shows, mainly Chicago..... And I think no, it couldn't be..... Maybe she only looks 90% like her..... Well an hour or so later she walked by again with her husband and this time we made eye contact...... Yes it was her. Kathy from Chicago, just strolling the streets of Copenhagen on the way to dinner running into other miniaturists from the US and South Africa....... I guess this miniature thing is a small word after all?
  5. 6 points
    This little summer house can turn 360 degrees, Josje and I thought it was probably intended for invalids with tuberculosis etc, this way you could get as much sun on you as you wanted/needed! I found the roof construction of this farm house very interesting as it looks exactly like the roof construction of the Cape Dutch houses. Josje spotted my surname on a grave stone that forms part of the church floor in the museum :-)
  6. 6 points
    Guild School starts June 7-13. Hard to believe, but we just had 3 new students sign-up this week. It's never too late! There are still great classes open. Check it out! www.igma.org
  7. 5 points
    I have been following Elga's rug making. Thought of posting this there but thought better. Many years ago I was teaching making a pedal car at the Guild School. My class room was right next to the petipoint class room. We did a lot of tap,tap, tap hammering in forming the tin. But there was not a sound coming from next doors. As a lark, one day my whole class walked into the petipoint class. Here was this bunch of ladies all hunched over, looking through magnifiers and not saying word. We politely asked them to hold down the noise, we are have a problem concentrating on our hammering. Do you have any idea what stares, glares and frowns look like coming back through optivisers?
  8. 5 points
    Chris, I think the Proxxon only comes in metric, a pity since as Tamra pointed out the Microlux mill is double the price. Funny that you should mention the tilting head Tamra as I made a V block just yesterday to mill 45 degree slots in tiny little doors for the hinges. I found this video that shows you how to make the V block, although he didn't measure before the time I had to as I don't have a full size table saw and the depth of my cut was limited by the size of my blade. Your comment made me think a bit further as I am starting work on two Chippendale chairs this week and need to mill 10 degree mortises and tenons in the side pieces of the chair rails, three years ago I just used a piece of scrap wood to lift the wood a bit at an angle but it wasn't ideal. After a bit of thinking and working out the dimensions I made a 10 degree jig as you can see in the photos, it is a bit too short to support my wood all the way, I will probably glue a piece of 2mm thick plywood on top to make it a bit wider, with a full size table saw it will be possible to make a wider jig. With this method one can make any degree jig you need...a great solution for those of us who don't have a mill with a tilting head. For the second cut I put a scrap piece of wood the same thickness of the blade in the first slot to support the wood while cutting the second slot. Milling the 10 degree mortise in the chair rail. My brother bought me this great lamp at Ikea in Stavanger, they were a lot cheaper in Norway than here...and this one is long enough to swing to whichever tool I am using as well as to the other side of my desk where all the assembling happens...good lighting is essential when you are working with your power tools.
  9. 5 points
    Well I can see this thread going off in another direction so I will keep posting more tin stuff. With cold weather coming on I will be taking break to change over from garage work space (the little heaters can't keep me warm enough) to inside studio so it will be a while. Thank you all for your encouragement's.
  10. 5 points
    The next step in making the legs was to mill all the mortises for the aprons, because the aprons are fairly thin I cut the tenon only on the face side of the apron, because I didn't want the mortise so close to the front of the legs. After I milled out the mortises I cut off the extra wood at the top and bottom of the legs. I also cut the opening in the front apron for the drawer, if you look carefully you will see two tiny mortises towards the bottom and sides of the back apron, that is for the drawer runners. Another thing I cut was the tiny knee blocks, I have started to shape the first one and made a few extra as I suspect some of them might fly away to be never found again
  11. 4 points
    Finally got around to making a 1:8 scale chair for the roll top desk. Took me three attempts to get it right, going through each hole six times with beige thread. Cheers, Guy
  12. 4 points
    Everybody is so quiet, hoping you are all having time to make a few miniatures! I finished this new piece of petitpoint yesterday, it will go into the sliding screen of a new sewing table that I am busy making. I stitched it on 72 count slik gauze with Pipers silk. It took me 27 days to chart and stitch working on average three hours a day on it and it has a total of 10 614 stitches. The blue background made it very difficult to choose some of the other colors, I had to try a few greens before I was happy with the results.
  13. 4 points
    One of the things I love doing is making parquetry furniture, namely tables. As I have a drafting background, I use the computer to draft up a design which I print out. I then choose my veneers and start cutting out the shapes. I always cut the piece (using an Olfa knife and ruler) and glue it down before cutting out the next piece and gluing it down. That way, if the pattern gets away from you, it's easier to adjust as you go along. Once all the pieces are glued down, I sand it until I can't feel the joints. The rest of the table gets built and assembled and then I finish the piece with a clear coat. This piece has 64 individual pieces of wood in the surface of the table.
  14. 4 points
    Here's an old instruction sheet I made several years ago. The source for stainless steel wire I have used previously is no longer available. The one listed here appears to have what we need, but I haven't used them. I would no longer recommend piano wire, unless that's the only thing you can get. Making Your Own Knitting Needles.doc Sue from Mesa
  15. 4 points
    Back in 1990 I made this table on a commission. I copied it from the original which is said to be the table the Boston Tea Party was planned around. The table is made of Swiss pear wood. I made 4 of these, one was recently sold at a Rhoades Auction. Of the 4, two are in museums and two in private collections.
  16. 4 points
    Pictured below are two paintings I've done using Genesis heat set oil paints. I was fortunate to learn to paint at the Guild School in 2010, in two classes from the very talented and patient Jeff Wilkerson. We learned a seascape in one class and TWO English landscapes in the second one. Jeff made it a wonderful learning experience. I had been trying to paint a landscape for the longest time, and never could figure out what I was doing wrong. Jeff broke it down for us, telling us to paint the broad background areas as if we were just painting the side of a house. When we switched to smaller brushes, he told us it was like painting the trim of the house! The beauty of these paints is that they operate like oil paints but you dry them between each step with a heat gun, which literally cooks the paint within a minute on a tiny canvas. Genius, Genesis! The pictures are of the coast of Lake Michigan from north of Milwaukee Wisconsin, and one that is a commissioned piece. The lake painting is based on a photo I took, and the second one is taken from the emailed photo of the original painting, which is set behind the miniature. Enjoy!
  17. 4 points
    This table was my excuse to build one of the many constructions that are out there are to extend a dining table. One of these methods is this draw-leaf construction, or pull out, where the leaves are stowed underneath the table top when not in use. I figured that's a really neat feature if you like to 'play' with your miniatures. First I made a modern version of this type, to get to grips with the construction and when that one run smooth I turned to this one; This original was listed on the site of an antique dealer, but with my understanding of the construction and mechanism under the belt I scaled out a plan. Some joint were a bit unclear but I could fall back on period cabinet making books to figure them out. I decided to make it from cherry to represent the the oak wood that this 19th Centure refectory table is made of best. The aprons had some lovely carvings on them, so I added those before assembly. Just like the melon feet; I carved and stained them first. The sliding mechanism was the final job. Here's what it turned out to be;
  18. 3 points
    Thanks for the compliments Bill, I think trying to figure out how to do it is more fun than actually doing it much of the time. It took me several attempts just to figure pout the template for drill int the segment holes. Once I got the fixture set up drilling the holes was just taking the time to drill all 500 + holes. The biggest problem was keeping the holes aligned as the tiny drill wanted to wander when it hit hard grain. I solved much of this by starting the hole with a center drill first. I can only work about an hour or so each day so it took me much of a week to drill all the holes. Same to for turning own the nail heads. My lathe is set up for that and locked in position. so ever once in a while when I need something to do I set down at the lathe and turn nails. I'm about 1/3 of the way in finishing the nails.
  19. 3 points
    Here is a dwarf rabbit Rex 1:12 Find our creations on latelierdunain.com
  20. 3 points
    From Wednesday to Friday I taught the Queen Anne writing chair that I am teaching in Castine next year, I will post the photos once the Castine catologue is out. It was a fun class to teach with four of my six students people who have been to Guild School before. Of course we spoke a lot about Castine and one of my students who is very new to miniatures decided to pre-register for next year's Castine. One of my students hosted me for the week in their holiday home, here are photos of the seaview from my bedroom in the early morning and the view towards the mountains from the other side of the house. It was truly a great week!
  21. 3 points
    And all too soon the last day of school arrived. I didn't finish my planes at school, I hope to have enough time to work on them next week and finish them. With a few friends at the graduation on Friday night. It was a great week and I hope to be back next year!
  22. 3 points
    Peter and all, below is the angle plate set up in my Sherline. Works fine for me.
  23. 3 points
    Here is the Colman House, it is the largest in the collection Factory made toy houses One of the many doll cases, keep in mind all these photos only show a fraction of the collection on display There are cases by each decade to bring toys up to our time, to me the 50's and 60's cases were like a 3-d trip through the Sears Christmas catalog. I also find it somewhat strange that things I owned brand new are in a museum…… there is just something wrong with that concept….. but I loved it. There is a large exhibit called Toys in the Attic with just all kinds of stuff Many of the pieces have great histories, some of which have wonderful video programs to explain them
  24. 3 points
    Tamra, I taught the first three students this last Saturday, it went well and they thoroughly enjoyed it...I told them they had the luxury of not trying to make a matched pair :-) We ended up having only one lathe so we were challenged for time as the club meeting is only four hours long. Here is a photo of two of the students finished candlesticks, the third lady had to go home early. Good luck with sourcing all your supplies...although I sometimes wish to escape to living in the country, I am happy that I live in a large metropolitan area, my brass supplier also stock aluminum, there are two branches I can go to, both about a 30 minute drive away...they cut for the industry and sell all their off cuts cheaper than normal price and usually have quite a nice selection to choose from.
  25. 3 points
    Hi from England, Here are my latest 2.I have used hand cut flock for the bulldog. some artists say this is a easier method but i find it takes much more time as extra detail to muscles and wrinkles is needed to emphasize them and not to mention the time taken to cut the flock to a fine consistency! Would love to know from any other animal artists if there is a "finishing spray" available on the market that preserves furred miniatures. kind regards julie
  26. 3 points
    The can is now finished.
  27. 3 points
    Here is the class I will be teaching in Castine 2015. If you know anyone who might be interested, please feel free to pass along this information! Fisherman’s Cabled Vest The Fisherman’s sweater, also known as an Aran Cabled sweater, originated on the west coast of Ireland in the Aran Isles. The many interwoven designs on these garments are not merely decorative—they are symbolic and specific to the life of a fisherman and sometimes to the family clan itself. It is said that ill-fated Fisherman who washed ashore after a shipwreck could often be identified by the unique designs on their cabled sweaters. Our Fisherman’s vest has traditional motifs including the basic cable stitch, which depict the fisherman’s ropes and represents a wish for a fruitful day at sea. The diamond pattern is a wish of success, wealth and treasure. The moss stitch, on the back of the vest, represents the seaweed used to fertilize barren fields in the hopes of producing a bountiful harvest. This will be a very fun class for intermediate to advanced knitters with recent knitting experience and is an ideal portable project that can be worked on outside of class. Miniature knitting experience is desirable but not required. Anyone who is comfortable using smaller needles (such as for sock or glove knitting) and has good hand-eye coordination will be successful though it is recommended that you practice with small needles prior to taking the class. Knitting skills taught in this class include making functional inset pockets and buttonholes. The stiches and patterns we will employ include ribbing, moss stitch, basic cable, diamond cable and garter stitch. In addition to these techniques, I will share with the students how to create an almost perfectly seamless garment and in the few places where there are seams, how to make them nearly invisible. TIME: 24 Hours. Completion is likely –students may need to do some work outside of class. POWER TOOLS: None SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate to advanced. Experienced knitters will do best in this class. The design looks complex but is fairly simple and once you get into the rhythm of it, it will be easy to do for long stretches without having to look at the pattern, making it an ideal “portable” project. MATERIALS FEE: $50 to be collected at the school. Students will be receiving two sets of hand made double pointed stainless steel needles (4 needles in each set), cotton thread, a pattern with step by step photographic instructions, wooden buttons and a knitting bag the perfect size for this project. *Additional items to bring to class include small crochet hooks, sewing needles, beading needles, scissors and magnification.
  28. 3 points
    Right now I am far away from home and busy attending the annual summer miniature school in Tune Denmark. Since the sun woke me up so early I thought I would start telling you about some of the things I have seen so far. On Friday I went to the Zuiderzee museum in Enkhuizen, The Netherlands, for me it was quite interesting because of the links this area have with my own country's history. It was from here that the VOC's ships sailed to the Cape of Good Hope, for those who are interested, here is a link with a bit of the early history. http://www.sahistory.org.za/cape-town/dutch-settlement The museum at Zuiderzee tells the story of how people lived in the early 1900's in the area, the houses etc were all moved from their original locations and rebuilt at the museum, here is some more on the history. http://www.zuiderzeemuseum.nl/en/44/discover/history/ One of the tiny houses. A bandsaw in the woodworkers shop, it was powered by a steam engine in the attic above. A table saw, I would have loved to see it in action.
  29. 3 points
    Another thing you do is check how many threads per inch (tpi) your screw is. For example a standard American threaded rod would be 1/4-20 or 20 tpi. That means 20 turns equals 1" of movement, so 10 turns is a 1/2", 5 turns is 1/4", 1 turn is .050", a 1/2 turn is .025" etc. So, let's say you are making a molding, you take a test cut, measure it with your calipers and let's say you need to adjust another .010", just turn it 1/5 of a turn. You could even get fancy and mount a dial up there, just make sure you can easily zero it at any starting point.
  30. 3 points
    thank you for your comment. Unfortunately when I do the final photos of my miniatures I try to use natural light in order to be as realistic as possible, and my face in them can destroy this magical moment!!. But, if what you want is to see the café just as a miniature, here you have a photo.
  31. 3 points
    Berlin wool work changed the concept of embroidery in society, in the 16th, 17th and 18th most embroidery were done by the rich who could afford the fabrics and silks needed for embroidery and also had the time to spend many hours on designing. But the industrial revolution changed everything, a new middle class started to grow and it became a status symbol for a man if he could support his wife and daughters and they didn't have to earn part of the family's income. Of course this meant long hours for the women to fill with activities, women who didn't grow up with a tradition of needlework skills being passed down through the generations and needed a bit of help. And here enters Berlin wool work, little is known as to who made the first charts, what we do know is that it started in Berlin, Germany in the early 1800's, the first charts were printed black and white graph paper and women were employed to paint each square of the design by hand, later the charts were lithographed. By the 1830's these charts were imported to Britain and the USA and the Berlin wool work craze lasted until the 1880's when people like William Morris started the Arts & Crafts movements and once again drew inspiration from Medieval embroideries and techniques used at that time. Over the last few years I have stitched quite a few pieces from original charts of the time that were published in books and modern digitized charts recharted from the originals by a few collectors that decided to share them that way with the world. Of course many designs are too big to use for miniatures, but many are suitable when stitched on fine enough counts. This lion was one of my very first pieces stitched on 58 count silk gauze. All framed up and hanging in the study of my Victorian dollhouse. A sweet little picture that reminds me of the Kate Greenaway illustrations she did for children's books in late Victorian times. I particularly like the charts with children and animals, and have quite a few more that I would like to stitch. This delightful picture of a little girl with her dogs is actually set in to the top of a small table, my very first piece of furniture made with proper joinery. This is one of my favorite pieces, I just love the serenity of the little girl leading her deer against the background of a lake and mountains. It is framed in an original antique Victorian photo frame that I bought at Lucy's dollhouse shop in Camden, Maine the very first year I went to Guild School as a scholarship student. And talking of Guild School, I made this 18th century fire screen and donated it for the live auction when I found out that scholarship students were allowed to donate to the auction. A close up of the beautiful bouquet of flowers, another subject loved by Victorian stitchers. Famous paintings were also charted, this one was painted by F.P.Stephanoff (1789 -1860), it is quite large and destined to become a wall hanging.
  32. 3 points
    Back to our story, the next day, which was the last day of a month long trip, I was at the famous flea market in Paris which covers about 15 blocks, it have everything from very fancy shops to people selling out of the backs of their cars in alleys...... And it was in one of these that I saw and was able to buy a nearly identical spinning wheel that somehow stayed un disturbed for 200 years... It even had the last work on it was obviously away from sunlight as the velvet was as deep and bright as when new. This was back in the day as would say before 9/11 when the airlines would let you take something this on the plane and practically let you hold it on your lap. So off I went to bring it home. Now for the fun part, remember I told you I already knew about these spinning wheels, well that is because I have Bergeron's book that shows them. This is the 1816 printing which has much larger plates than the first edition and two volumes of text containing about 1100 pages, all in French. Since Bergeron's book was in print for nearly 50 years it can be found, much rarer is the English translation of the first volume which was first issued as a series of papers in the 1860 s.... Well, I had that too...... So here we have the real object, the book about making it from the period and a later translation of it.... Since the drawing was in the French inch, pied du Roi, which is foot of the king.... I even used 18th c. French scales and tools to take my measurements.
  33. 3 points
    The Brake System: The brake leaver is constructed from nickel silver flat stock, It works. Could not find a proper spring in scale so it works on a torsion process to operate the latch dog. The correct notches will be fitted in the arc when I finish the brake system. This is one rear wheel with the brake drum out side brake band and mechanism and the bracket that attaches to the rear spring which holds the brake band in place. Note the 1/32' hex nuts inside the brake drum. The brake drum, brake band (it is adjustable by turning the little cylinder under the yoke) and mounting bracket which will clamp on the spring. This is the brake drum and brake band mounted (off the wheel) to the bracket that is attached to the main wagon springs. The complete brake system for the brake leaver side. The short leaver sticking down about mid length is connected to a shaft that runs under the wagon to a similar brake system for the other side.
  34. 3 points
    ​This is my very first 1/12th scale horse drawn vehicle, built in 1967. It is a Jenny Lind (named after an actress of the time) The bottom view shows the undercarriage. The photo was taken with a point and shoot camera of those times. Many people call these Doctor's buggies but they are not. The most common name is piano box buggy because of the resemblance to a piano shipping crate. There is the basic piano box and variations such as the Jenny Lind. These buggies are very light in weight and very fast.
  35. 3 points
    Well that was so much fun I made a bunch more....... Here is a photo showing the cutter I made (from 3/8" drill rod to give an idea of size) for pedal base....... This base was turned from both sides.... And one of those with the adjusting screw.....
  36. 2 points
    I worked on some more tonight, most notably the shepherd and some other things. But still more to go.
  37. 2 points
    To avoid oozing apply masking tape along the edge of the plex. Leave about half of the dado depth showing of plex. Once caulking is set up just run a sharp knife along the edge of the frame cutting through the tape and just peel it off.
  38. 2 points
    Chip-carved box prototype is 2" x 1-1/4". It is made from pear. I say prototype because it was an experiment to see what exactly was feasible, especially the hardware. I made the strap hinges and hasp from thin brass, then blackened them. I made a little box joint jig too. The new ones will have a refined more detailed design and better hardware.
  39. 2 points
    The Guild School auction is pretty crazy, not at all like the usual type of auctions. A small bag of Cheese Doodles went for $100 in 2009. We are happy to auction off items people no longer need or want. They always go to the good home of a passionate miniaturist.
  40. 2 points
    I developed a drawing over the picture of the box to find the measurements of the bands around the top and bottom of the box and other parts of the box. This is a drawing system I developed to take measurements from photos known one or two measurements. In the studio an in the garage worked worked trying to cut narrow strips for the banding around the top and bottom of the box. I can not cut accurate narrow steps of the heavy metal in my shear so I made a fixture to hold the strips while I file them down to width.
  41. 2 points
    I am busy carving chair backs on mopane which is quite a difficult wood to carve, for the really tiny details I find my knife blade way too big to be able to see what I am doing and was getting frustrated...I had the brain wave to try a 0.3mm ball burr in a pin vise and it turned out to be one of the best ideas I ever had, I used it on the outside edge of the scroll on the right side of the chair back, the left side still needs more work. For the inside curve I used the 0.5mm ball bur that you can also see in the photo, followed by a 0.8mm ball bur.
  42. 2 points
    I just finished teaching the second day..... We are having fun and wishing you all were here..... A big hello from us!
  43. 2 points
    I got the idea for this build after noticing this barn in the woods a few winters back. I have no idea what may have been inside but imagined it full of treasures such as the '68 Camaro RS. It actually had a fallen tree laying across the roof like the one in the model. How the poor old thing was still standing is anyone's guess.
  44. 2 points
    A real unexpected find today. While getting my monthly blood test, nurse Bob told me about Eugene Textile Company. --Bob sews and machine embroiders; we both are hooked on dragons --. Turns out the store is about two miles from our house. I took my tapes with me and showed them off. They were well received and the clerk told me about a weaving club that meets there. ETC is a fun place to visit. Rooms of looms and all kinds of fiber and yarns; to much other stuff to take in at one visit. I expect I will go back soon. I also found The Weaver's Inkle Pattern Directory book and bought it.
  45. 2 points
    I think the question is more about how do sand or rub out a finish..... Getting the little dust partials etc out of the corners. It is very time consuming...... I use bits a wet/dry sandpaper, like 400 or 600 grit, fold them and work these tight spots. Then I take 4/000 steel wool and work the area some more often using a tooth pick to hold the steel wool. The thing is you have to careful not to go in the same motion all the time or it will show..... Bottom line is it takes time. It normally takes me 3 to 4 hours to rub out a piece of furniture, so if I make 6 of something, that is 3 full days of gently rubbing. Hope this helps. BTW.... How have you been doing it?
  46. 2 points
    hello to everybody, this new topic is going to be very extensive, so I will need four messages due to the limit of 1 Mb when I adjoint photos. I hope it won't be heavy nor boring! I want to talk about what I call "miniature houses" or "miniature architecture" in order to distinguish from "dollhouses". a "miniature house" is the same of any other miniature, that is, if you enlarge twelve times, you could walk and live as if it was real. (well, it is not absolutely true, there is not running water nor gas, only electricity: miniature switches and miniature sockets in each room that could work in a real scale). So it means that there is a logical layout of rooms, stairs, distributors or corridors, that I have four façades (in a town house, two of them are party walls made of brick with small ventilation courtyards for secondary rooms such as batrooms, stairs, ..), that rooms have the appropiate size to their use, that the structure from groundfloor to the top is logical. As some façades must be practicables to see the inside, I divide them in those points that match with a architectural joint or with a construction material change, and never with a hinge that can be seen from outside. The geometry of the house is studied carefully because all rooms, windows, doors, floors.. can be taken apart and also because when it is lighted, light must be seen from windows, never from joints!. As nothing is glued but inserted, I must accept some little mistakes, this is quite obvious!, although I try that this mistakes will be also on scale! As well as you make a cupboard, or a chest of drawers, and you show them in detail as if they were a purpose in themselves, always empty, when they were designed to keep clothes and other private items, I also show my houses empty. Each one is free to imagine how can decorate its inside or even change the color or the pavement, as we do when we want to buy a real house!. As an example of this, I invite you to a virtual visit through one of this houses. It is a small town house in two floors, no more than one hundred square meters in total. The reason is quite simple, as well as in real scale we can find small building sites, in my case this building site was my car! because this house was shown in London and it could not be bigger! 1. the entrance, with a mahogany double door and a glassed door that gives you to the entrance hall 2. the entrance hall, a distributor and the kitchen, at the back 3. the sitting room seen from the entrance hall 4. the sitting room 5. the distributor, the first door on your left goes to the kitchen, the second, to the dining room. In front of you, the stairs 6. the kitchen
  47. 2 points
    Thank you Judy, stitching time is my favorite hour of the day!
  48. 2 points
    Thank you so much for putting up the links! They are marvelous tutorials!
  49. 2 points
    Hello, My name is Catherine Ronan. I live in Memphis, TN. USA. My journey with miniatures started when I was attending the Memphis Collage of Arts to become a metalsmith. In my first small metals class in 1977, I made a sterling silver birdcage in 1: 12 scale. This was how I learned to silver solder. It looks very crude to me now but it is a sentimental piece that lead me to where I am today. In 1989 I was asked by the state of Tennessee (along with my partner) to create a silver service (coffee pot, tea pot, sugar bowl, creamer and tray) for the new trident nuclear submarine the USS Tennessee. It had to be small because every inch on a submarine has to be accounted for. It was to be a gift from the people of of TN (made by Tennessee silversmiths) and presented to the Navy by our Governor upon completion. We created this silver service at the National Ornamental Metal Museum so that the public could come into the smithy and watch the process. That process combined raising, casting, chasing, repoussé and engraving. I continue to do work of this nature today. After a day of metal work (1: 1 scale) I enjoy trying new things in miniature. I have always said in my artist statements... If I want it, I make it. So I am trying all sorts of things like making miniature animals. I am happy to try any technique or material to achieve the miniature result I am looking for. I was delighted when I was invited to become a member of this forum.
  50. 2 points
    PART 2 In October 1999 I flew back to kansas City to visit a friend and to rent a car and drive down to Pearson's in Gardner, Kansas to measure and photograph a popcorn wagon frame they were starting to restore. It was so cold in the ware house that I had to keep one camera in my jacket next to my body while I use the other one. They kept freezing up. The heater/defroster in the little Toyota I rented could not keep up with the freezing windshield. I had to stop every few miles and scrape the ice off. To top it off I got lost and had to call Bill to get directions. I'm used to trees, hills and other landmarks, not flat lands. From that trip I developed the drawings for the frames. The picture below is the frames soldered up and ready to put together. And shown below is the assembled frame with wheels, undercarriage,springs and wheels.
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