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    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      

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Showing most liked content since 08/23/2017 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    And this rocker is like the one in the catalog. Had a hard time doing the mortise and tenon joints for the curved back slats - and get the back seat rail in there at the same time. Before the glue got tacky enough to make things stick together and hold, the rocker would explode all over the floor and table. And then the glue would be too dry, or too wet again and another explosion would happen. Tried doing butt joints instead of mortising for the seat rails and that didn't help. May have made things worse as it was very slippy. I'm going to give myself some credit as this rocker had NO right angles whatsoever. Learned a lot of new techniques though.
  2. 2 points
    I have been busy making watering cans from flat sheet and wire. This week I got a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack. Which will make things a lot easier. I was burnishing those rings (on the can) in by hand.
  3. 2 points
    Here is a dwarf rabbit Rex 1:12 Find our creations on latelierdunain.com
  4. 1 point
    Hi, I tried to upload a photo with no luck... anyway. I want to make a sofa that's curved. Not flat and cut in a curve but bent... how do you curve wood for minis? Do you steam it?
  5. 1 point
    Hi Kathe, Welcome to the forum.... My first set of micro carving tools was a set of dockyard carving tools... knowing myself, they are probably the middle size. I got a couple of tools from Elizabeth G, at a GS Seminar (Carving a ball & claw foot), and then added a small starter set of the flexcut tools. I can also borrow tools from husband's collection...as long as I pay attention to the rules... like put them back after finished and do not let them bang around. I go back and forth, always buy the smallest? or buy the medium size... or buy ALL of them... I still only have my original set. If you are planning to carve the piece that was the recent subject posted for the bending wood? then I think I would want the smallest size tools. Two Cherry tools are very nice, (aka Expensive) but if you love the best quality in your tools, I would consider this brand too... oh and these are available at my local woodwoking store, so I can see them in person before buying. Some people carve with a dremel or foredom flex shaft, but I prefer to carve by hand, as I need all the control possible. If you do purchase the dockyards, they could fit perfectly in a magnetically closing eyeglasses case, and you can go to Lowe's or Home Depot and purchase clear plastic tubing to slip over the blades to protect them from damage. Another option is to repurpose leather from a large purse or tote, and sew a leather roll for them as you do want to prevent damage.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you to our Guild Committee and all of the board members who volunteered and worked diligently to bring this event together. It was I N C R E D I B L E !! I was thrilled with the items I was able to purchase and my only regret is that I couldn't buy everything as there was so many wonderful treasures. I could have easily spent $10,000 in about 10 minutes, on just one side of one sales area ... Leslie Smith's painting of Adele Bloch - Bauer I was one of the favorite items that didn't come home with me. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_of_Adele_Bloch-Bauer_I Hosting this event at the museum was a perfect backdrop... the gallery talks gave us a glimpse of the history that surrounded the creative process, and the opportunity to ask an artisan about a technique was incredible... and while this opportunity also exists when you participate in workshops or Guild School with the instructors, the opportunity to talk to the artisan one on one at the gallery talk was rare... I didn't have problems navigating Kansas City, and even found an entire neighborhood of storybook houses that I would have loved to have toured in more detail. It was fun to see our new artisan's participate, Dustin from Michigan (USA), Victoria from Russia, and Elga from South Africa, and I hope they had wonderful first shows! And our veteran instructor Elizabeth G was also at her first show and I think she was having fun too. I got to discuss Catherine's Palace (at the Kentucky Gateway Museum) with Robert Dawson and even brought my Mulvaney & Roger's book for Susie and Kevin's autographs.... and talked with Susie about the wonderful experience of being a grandma. The submissions pieces were wonderful... and the only thing I would have changed was a brief photo op of all the submission pieces.... so I'm sending emails and then based upon response I'll post pics for the FMF. I was so surprised to see Anne R, a fellow of Needlework at this show... and it was great to see her again and share part of a day. Thank you again to the Guild! It was a memorable weekend, and I'm sure I will be smile each time I look at the new treasures!
  7. 1 point
    Gail, Thank you. I think they got it wrong... It's tools that are a girls best friend. Oops... I see there is some Blu-tack stuck in one of the holes in the watering head. I'll just pretend it's a bit of garden grunge. ;-)
  8. 1 point
    Catherine, how many girls can say they own a new hydraulic press with a 20 ton jack? That's what I love about this hobby so much! I love your watering can! gail
  9. 1 point
    Yes Kathe, you need to cut your wood into the final shape before bending, if it is a piece with tenons that need to fit into mortises on other pieces you need to also do that before bending. The wood cools down quickly so you need to have everything ready to put it into your bending jig as quickly as possible.
  10. 1 point
    Hello, My name is Alan, from the Mid-South(U.S.). I'm new to this forum, and I'd like to share some images of my craft. My very first miniature was a table that I made from balsa wood and wooden dowels, stained a dark walnut "colour"; and is now in a landfill somewhere, as it was that bad. I never took a picture of it. This, my second, and first-serious, miniature: a lady's lingerie chest, constructed entirely of cherry; even the drawer handles. The handles and sides were steam-bent, the handles made from the thinnest dowels imaginable... The image is a bit grainy, and I know I didn't take it, as my first camera was digital. I've never owned what I call a "paper" camera. My older brother must've taken it, as he did of the others of that time. It was just five inches tall, and I made it entirely from scratch. That was back in 1991 or '92, and long sold off. The vast majority of my work was conducted in the early-to-mid '90s. The designs are of my own, as I've rarely if ever reproduced existing items. I've made only about fourteen or so thus far. I would love to show you the others, but I don't want to press, being that this is my first posting. Thank you for looking! Cheers, Alan
  11. 1 point
    I happened upon some better, more detailed photographs of the aforementioned lady's dressing table... Again, the dresser was based on those found within the first-class cabins aboard the R.M.S. "Titanic"... ...the aforementioned plastic model, 1/350-scale. It won second place at the King Con model show in Memphis, and around the 80th anniversary of the ship's sinking. Later, I placed it for sale at a hobby shop, and was eventually bought by someone affiliated with the Titanic Exhibition when it came through Memphis in the spring of '97. I attended that exhibition. I wouldn't have missed it for the world. I was told that my model was used as a guide for a much larger model for same. The model does not have double masts as it seems there. Rather, that's the shadow caused by the flash. Under the ship, I had made and placed a house with a car in the driveway, for perspective. After I built that model, there was was really nothing else to challenge me. It was then that I turned towards the making of miniatures in wood, and what I consider a natural progression.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Thank you! Do you find that some woods bend easier than others? I read Ash is quite flexible. Might you have a good source to buy small pieces of wood? Thanks again. That dresser is fantastic!
  15. 1 point
    In the past, I've boiled wood in a pan of water, made it conform to a desired shape, a form made from pine, placed it into the oven at a temperature a little over the boiling point, 230° to 240°, until I felt it was dried out, and then had at it... Now, in the case of an "S" curve, like that above, the wood was sandwiched between two forms, but you only have to make one cut into the pine. I think I used wire, something heat-proof, to hold the "sandwich" together, and tightly. Incidentally, I made the handles out of cherry, too, and had boiled and notched them for their curves.
  16. 1 point
    I was fortunate to get a piles of Fine Woodworking, Woodsmith and Shop Notes Magazines for $4 a pile recently at auction so we have been reading and ripping out items of interest... A member in our unimat forum passed this along, and I thought this is interesting as I have been studying options to set up my own corner of my basement... http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Smallest-Workshop-in-the-World/ The one thing that confuses me about mounting saws underneath the top, (jig saw & circular saw) that the author indicates in his post, is the direction of the blades correct? I switched my motor leads on my taig lathe, when I mounted my motor's pulley in the opposing direction, so the spindle would run the proper way... This is a nice space saving concept, but I'm not convinced this is the setup for me... but I would love to have the preac mounted for a larger table that would facilitate ripping nice long boards and a table underneath those cuts... I'm looking forward to your comments.
  17. 1 point
    My latest project. Already I have plans on how to make these better. WISH I could let you see the patterns inside them. SO pretty. You can turn the wheel and the patterns change. They have real stained glass chips in them and are sturdy, too.
  18. 1 point
    Did you take a hammer to the stained glass? and how do you cut glass that small for the eye piece of the scope? Amazing! I have added kaleidescope to the turning list too. I still haven't tried to cut my tiny broken cell phone glass cover... I don't think the glass is tempered, as it cracked, and if it were tempered I think it would have totally shattered... it is laying on my table next to my lathe, so I don't loose it. As I was assembling a life size ink pen for my mother in law this evening, I was wondering if anyone ever made a 1/12th scale working ink pen... perhaps a fountain pen would be easier to make to work...
  19. 1 point
    mini Ghosts....I am now thinking of some animation for the witches lair... and attaching a rocking chair to some mechanism, so it can move on its own.... I have no idea how to do this, but I bet Ron & April Gill know what to do! I remember visiting the Hickory Corners miniature museum in Michigan, and I was mesmerized by the moving airplane in one of their roomboxes... I'm not sure which one of us was more mesmerized... the young boy at the museum, or me...
  20. 1 point
    The wind was blowing through the window today. The mini rockers on my work table were rocking away all by themselves.
  21. 1 point
    Hi, Kathe, I would recommend a Hegner variable speed scroll saw, made in Germany. They are not cheap, but well built and worth every penny over the long haul. I have been using mine for over 25 years. gail
  22. 1 point
    Dear Miniature Studio...I'm having structure build withdrawal symptoms... how is it going? Is it a Nay or Yea on the staircase?
  23. 1 point
    I'm going and already have my wishlist!
  24. 1 point
    Great job, oh yes I know all aboit chair parts exploding! Chairs are one of the most difficult items to build in miniature.
  25. 1 point
    The Rocker(s) look wonderful, and you found the catalog picture too! Great job on the finished project!
  26. 1 point
    Wrapping up this chess set project. Dyed the black part of the set. The dye technique was to pulverize acorns (just the orange meat part of the acorn) and cover with water. I used 6 acorns for 1/4 cup of water. Clean (Dawn dish washing liquid and water) rinse and dry the pieces to dye and let them soak overnight in the acorn water. In the meantime put a piece of steel wool in lemon juice - a plastic container is OK to use for this - there wasn't any smell or fumes from this. Put the pieces from the acorn water into the steel wool and lemon juice and soak for as long as it takes to get the color you want. It took about 3-4 days for the lemon juice to react with the steel wool and dye the pieces black. The first day and night of soaking I thought it just wasn't working. After 3-4 days the lemon/steel wool mixture would dye the antler material (and my fingers) almost instantly. The color is soaked through the piece and I'm sure very permanent.
  27. 1 point
    Kaye Browning, founder of the KSB Miniatures Collection in Maysville, Kentucky, has a new book on her experiences collecting called Collectively Speaking. It's available at https://store.bookbaby.com/book/Collectively-Speaking
  28. 1 point
    Collie Feathers, I was visiting one of my favorite fabric stores this past weekend in Chicago, enroute to the Fall Tom Bishop show to see the class prototypes, and I always look at the leather hides... yes, I saw hides with hair... and thought of your project. Here is a link for full size cow hides...I think they are really cool for the child size application. https://shop.4hides.com/collections/brown-and-white A recent episode of Antiques Roadshow was talking about how they made a rocking horse, like the one you photographed, and the appraiser indicated they were (my word) upholstered with a pony hide... So making one in miniature, you obviously don't want an entire hide... but my store has leather cut offs, that they sell for about $15, you may find a remnant locally, or on eBay.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I think it is fabulous! and Fearless instructor at Guild School brings the gravers for class complete with Wine Corks. They are great for using as caps to protect your gravers from damage. Now, I forgot... why don't we have wine in class again? Oh, I remember, it is that - do- not- operate- a- machine (while drinking) issue and all the sharp tools...
  31. 1 point
    Oh, yes, we lived in at least one if not two 1920s craftsman bungalows in Midtown Memphis, and before the Queen Anne. But craftsmen also built two-story homes as well. Here's one from Oregon, and with a lone transom window to boot, at far right...
  32. 1 point
    Tamra, The round brass items you are referring to are called "barrel nuts". They swivel in the jaws allowing lateral movement. I made each one from 1/4" brass rod, drilled through and tapped for 5-40 threads: one side being left hand and the other right hand. They are the same depth as the jaws. Each 1/8" brass rod screw requires both left hand threads and right hand threads. I had a problem holding the screws after threading one half of the rod so no damage was done to the existing threads. So I held the rods at the middle with vise-grips and then threaded the other half. This left an unthreaded area that was too wide in the middle so I cut this out and silver-soldered the rod back together. There could be other ways of doing this but that is what I did
  33. 1 point
    First Parlor Rocker finished. Wine cork for scale. Working on the second one today. It's very well balanced and will rock with ceiling fan wind. Do you think this is good enough for a donation to the IMGA Guild Show auction in Windsor, CT in Sept.? Three will be made and I'll pick the best one to donate.
  34. 1 point
    Hi Martha, I'm fascinated by such a perfect piece. Congratulations! I wish I could take those classes with Mrs. Elga, I am very far away.
  35. 1 point
    Martha, That's so pretty. How did you curve the back slats?
  36. 1 point
    Martha, it looks wonderful!
  37. 1 point
    The front wall is cut out, at last. I wanted to cut it outside given its size, but it has been raining here lately. It was barely dry enough to perform the "surgery" outside just a little while ago, but doable. The front wall is over twice the width of the two side-walls combined... The octagon for the hall will need to be cut out carefully. I plan to face the inner edges of same with some light-coloured veneer when building up the window. The transom, and over where the bathtub will rest, someday, is smaller than the side-wall transom, and that will need to be carefully cut out as well. I want to get the front wall, one of the side-walls, and the inner ground floor wall installed before I add the second floor and the other side wall. Also, I can restore that 1/2" that I had shaved off the bedroom's width for a 3"-wide staircase, albeit requiring the repositioning of the octagon, with the planned staircase to be 2.5" wide instead.
  38. 1 point
    Well, distribution as it is at chains is not expected to be consistent,,, and I had 3 choices... they had a nice inventory. Rest assured, I'll go back and check out the other two choices and then will buy a nice stash. I appreciate the tip! I am conservative when husband is with me; as he rolls his eyes and gives me that "look" when I am adding to the miniature stash. (I have a serious stash.) I have wanted to do this particular dream build for more then a decade, and I won't start it until I can do the staircase. The Cantiliver staircase is my ultimate staircase, so until I can successfully turn those spindles, and figure out how to create the railing, I will not start the build... as I don't want yet another unfinished project. So I have been working diligently on removing my own obstacles... you can see my post about staircases in the forum... I WISH I had not cut my floors for the staircase in my RGT Newport house; I unfortunately followed the plan of the floor when I assembled the kit and laid the floors on the second level, so I either re-do the floors or put the stairs in, which I do not like... Eventually that house will be finished, but I love the floors that are in there, so now I have to figure out how to compromise with me, they are all design issues with no time constraints, as there are no real mini people complaining about the contractor (me) who doesn't finish the job.
  39. 1 point
    The first floor is cut out... I don't have a table saw, but I do have an English-made(a bit odd, that) Makita® jigsaw, and their finest model some ten years ago or so when I purchased it... It works so well that it's almost a crime to own and operate one. I squared a fine-cut wood blade with the jigsaw's shoe, and whirred away. The foundation for the ground floor will be installed next, and to be footed. I have an 8' long 1" x 2" of clear pine for that, but I will need to make provisions for installing a row of mini two-pole on/off rocker switches, and so to turn the circuits on and off as desired. Scratch that 1x2, as I'll want to make the foundation a bit taller.
  40. 1 point
    Thank you all. I lived in Midtown Memphis from 1983 to 1995. The location and day-to-day rambling about lent themselves well to inspiration, yes, indeed; the semi-ancient trees, and the homes built at the turn of the last century and throughout the 1920s. According to my list that I had compiled many years ago, the lingerie chest was actually the fourth, and preceded by a stained-basswood grandfather's clock, second, and a columned fireplace and mantle, third. I have no photos of either, unfortunately; particularly of the mantle, regrettably, as I think I had made it of cherry; perhaps, perhaps not. After the lingerie chest, I made a brass refractor mounted on a pyramidal stand, fifth, of either cherry or mahogany, which featured four carved brass animal feet. I made that one in three days, and it sold in three days once placed with my handler. To this day, I believe that a tiny speck of brass entered my eye whilst carving the feet. Sixth: the "Lion's Head" armoire, of cherry, limba and Carpathian elm burl... The work featured a revolving center-door, with it and the side-doors fitted with mirrors. A neighbour had given me her empty makeup compacts, and from whence I retrieved the mirrors. She preferred the larger compacts, apparently, and much to my benefit. When I make an armoire, it must come with a set of coat-hangers; no ifs, ands, or buts. The rod for hanging them, within the cabinet; I don't know if I had positioned it prior to the taking of the photograph, but it was installed nonetheless. I was told several years later that it and the lingerie chest were donated to the Children's Museum of Memphis, and by a daughter of the lady who had purchased them. I went by there, eventually, but the staff were in the midst of a remodel, and with everything stored away. I may visit again in future. A bit of steam-bending is evident... At the time that I created these miniatures, all I had to work with was a craft-knife, sandpaper of varying grits, and a Dremel jigsaw and rotary tool. I now have a Preac table-saw, a Foredom rotary, a baby and mini drill-presses, and all sorts of carving and grinding bits.
  41. 1 point
    Hi! I'm Norbert. This is my one of first Roombox. I make it in ten weeks. 1-4 hours in day. Real oak floor. Hard wood elements. Soft wing chair. Glasses with glass inside. Fireplace with "moving" fire. 1:12 scale.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    I would try this without the vinegar, as I'm not sure if vinegar has an effect on the finish. I would also cut my slats with the grain of the wood vertical direction to help it curve. I am more inclined to let the wood dry naturally, and between two pieces of wood that I have shaped using the band saw and sanded for the shape desired for the slats then the oven method. Miniatures require lots of patience, eh? and time waiting.... Referencing The Scale Cabinetmaker Vol 12 no 2, Bending Hardwood for Miniatures by Donald Peck, (the project is a bentwood chair). "The best method is pre-soaking wood in water, followed by steaming or boiling in water. After the wood is pre-soaked by immersion in a bottle of water overnight, it should be heated with boiling water or steam for one half-hour to improve bendability. However, there is a little advantage gained in steaming rather than the simpler procedure of immersion in boiling water. Since miniature stock is small, it can simply be put in a pan of boiling water for one-half hour. Bending should be done quickly while the wood is still hot; bends fail more frequently when the wood has cooled." Referencing The Scale Cabinetmaker Vol 12 no 2, Drawing Room Grand Piano by Barry Appleyard here is he preparing to bend wood for the the piano case "Noting which way the grain has to run... soak them in hot (not boiling) water for 10-15 minutes. Remove them from the water when they are flexible enough to curve into the mold. Insert them into the outside mold butting each piece end to end. Then carefully insert the clamping block or inner mold and clamp until dry (about 3 to 4 days). This is the one time when it would be handy to be an octopus, but if carefully done with constant checking and rechecking before clamping it is quite easily accomplished. Don't try to hurry the drying time. If the wood dries too fast, the wood tends to check." One magazine and two different methods and both discussed using boiling water and NOT using boiling water. Think about a plaster mold application for making a dolls body. I would create a similar wood mold for the desired chair slat, or at least have something strong to cup around the bent piece of wood. Glass bottle + piece of wood to be bent+ bigger piece of heavy plastic to bend around bottle and wood. Then I would use really strong rubber bands to hold everything together - and let dry, and set and forget it ... resist the urge to check on it. I suggest the heavier piece of plastic rolled around the wood piece because your edges are sometimes difficult to manage. I did bend wood for the piano case in this project. Hope this helps - Tamra