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    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      


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Showing most liked content since 01/19/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    You might find this interesting. http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/20-PIECE-TOOL-SET-WALLET/productinfo/301001/ I have this set and it is about the only one I use now. They are not fancy smancy looking but the steel is very good and holds an edge. I find the handles easy to hold. These or similar are used by many Japanese carvers and carving teachers. My seat has about three sizes of each style from micro to larger. http://www.woodworkerz.com/wicked-sharp/ http://ornamental-woodcarver-patrickdamiaens.blogspot.be/search/label/'17th Century style carvings' Check out his blogs along the right hand side of his page. Hours of looking at awesome stuff. https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-carving/projects/relief-carving/architectural/grinling-gibbons-style-foliage/
  2. 2 points
    I have used bass wood for sculpting larger thing like the front door on my dollhouse. I found that fine blades that may come with a exacto type knife work very well with this type of wood, gouges not so much. If I want to do a very complex carving with scooped out designs I will try to get my hands on pear wood which is a pleasure to work with. I have included a photo of sculpting done on basswood with a exacto knife and various small knives. This project is still going on, may be finish by next year!!!
  3. 2 points
    To avoid oozing apply masking tape along the edge of the plex. Leave about half of the dado depth showing of plex. Once caulking is set up just run a sharp knife along the edge of the frame cutting through the tape and just peel it off.
  4. 1 point
    I think it partly depends on where you are in the world and the piece you happen to get. Colin Bird made beautiful tables long ago out of some pear he had with tiny knots in it. It was very much in scale with gorgeous wood grain.
  5. 1 point
    Oh, I am learning new details about wood... Also try searching for vertical grain or clear vertical grain... I think any evergreen tree that grows in your area would work... wood is very regional specific... Species that I would consider include Cedar, Fir, Cypress. Redwood and Cedar maybe too red in color. I believe Cedar is used for outdoor projects and lining clothing closets here in the US. Of course Decidous trees lose their leaves, and evergreens do not...and Pine of course is in the Evergreen family... so that is why I would try Cedar, Fir or Cypress.... I don't have a real Christmas Tree, but I can imagine me trying to save the tree trunk each year. I have what I think I planted is a very slow growing dawn redwood that I have been nurturing for a couple of decades, that didn't grow but inches, but it seems the last two years it is growing; I was wondering if it was related to Bamboo family. Since it is sooooo slow growing, should the tree not survive, I am planning to keep its trunk to see how it would turn or resaw on a band saw. To send you on a treasure hunt, somewhere on the forum, member Collie Feathers sawed a branch and it looks like a witch in the bark... I can't find it right now, but it was a-m-a-z-i-n-g!
  6. 1 point
    I have some Ramelsons, some Two Cherries, and some Pfeil. Overall, while the Ramelsons are fine, the others are nicer. One important consideration is that the Ramelsons frequently aren't sharp enough when you get them. You may likely need to put a sharp edge on them or your initial experience won't be as good. The Ramelsons were the shortest tools and there is some benefit to that unless you have huge hands. Specifically you will want the Ramelson microminiature set #117H. The six-tool set should be about $60. You can get them from https://www.ramelson.com/product-page/micro-miniature-117h Overall, the Pfeils were the best tools (of the few that I own), but I have to tell you that both the Two Cherries and the Pfeils were too long for my hands (I'm 5' tall and have correspondingly sized small hands). Specifically, I *loved* the Pfeil Palm Veiners, but they were a little too long for my hand. The Two Cherries Palm Veiner was a nice chisel but not as nice as the Pfeil and it cost 1.5x the cost of the Pfeil. Also uncomfortably long. The Two Cherries Palm skew was a total disappointment and I couldn't figure out a way to hold it and control it. It's over 6.5" long even though it's listed as a "palm" tool.
  7. 1 point
    The point I want to make and have sink in is that it is not the type of wood; you need to keep your carving tools very sharp. I have seen some very delicate carvings in balsa wood. Also another major problem is trying to take to deep of a cut with a gouge, especially in soft woods. Keep pieces of scrap wood around and practice, practice, practice with various cuts and woods. Your tools should be sharp enough to cut with or across the grain making clean cuts. If your cross grain cuts are tearing your tool is too dull or you are trying to take too deep of a cut, or both.
  8. 1 point
    Giselle, thank you for sharing your progress photo. Your carvings are very artistic; I love the trees in the door!
  9. 1 point
    http://thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Wood&that=Plastic I usually check this database, and when it is a two different materials that I am gluing together and I usually call a plastics specialty distributor--- nothing wrong with asking the professionals questions too. I have purchased from tap plastics and US Plastics. Here are a couple of links for your reference. https://www.tapplastics.com/product_info/plastics_information/adhesives https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=486&parentcatid=795&clickid=topnavmenu Your greenhouse sounds lovely - I have never tried to keep an orchid; your Mom must have been an amazing gardener! Also asked about the shelf life of the product you are purchasing. I know I bought something for acrylic to acrylic and it evaporated before I could make what I wanted to make.
  10. 1 point
    Good point, Nell, as our humidity here in Louisiana is very high most of the year. The orchids were live miniature orchids and she kept them alive several years! I even have the names of the species because it was a part of the display. I don’t think she ever watered them in the mini greenhouse. I made the roof removeable so she could get them in and out. I have tried silicone, but it was so thick that there was a lot of visible gunk. Any tips on getting a thin enough bead of silicone so that it doesn’t ooze onto the plexiglass? I said it was 30 years old, but am realizing that it is probably 40 years old! Martha