• Announcements

    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      

Milling wood for furniture tutorial
1 1

40 posts in this topic

Bill - do you tram your (mini) mill every time you use it?  I know I have to do that on the Bridgeport (probably because it's a shared asset and gets heavy use).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 If I was going to need the precision I had to tram it other wise I let it go for a while.  I sold that mill.  I only have my Sherline because of limited bench space. The Sherline's head stock can be tilted like the Unimat but I leave it alone.  

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My big mill is a Aciera F-3, the table tilts on two axis and the head and vise rotate. While these features are really nice the one in million times I need them it makes the machine a major PITA to tram. Therefor I almost always come up with a different way to do something before resetting anything.

I am planning on making a micro mill out of a Servo drill press, it is the large base version so I have plenty of room for a X - Y table, rotary table and index heads. The big problem is there is no quill lock so I have to design and make one. I figure I will only use this for very tiny milling jobs, those using mills smaller than a 1/32".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit more on the drawers, I finished all the milling on both the drawer fronts and back, actually the piece you saw in my previous post wasn't for a single drawer, after I did the dovetails on either side I milled a groove in it for the base of the drawer and then cut them into three pieces and milled the dovetails into all the other edges. I used a wheel bur for the groove because the drawers are curved.

20151124_181738_zpsttk3hvjl.jpg

Because I didn't want to bother with a new setup for the straight drawer backs I just used the same setup for the backs supporting the wood against a scrap piece of wood.

20151125_164618_zpsm6gfjoxw.jpg

All the pieces cut to size and all the dovetails milled, now these are ready for the sides to have the tails cut into them and then assembled, the drawer backs will be cut shorter where the grooves are so that the base can slide over it, in the back you can see the mirror base where the drawers will fit in, I leave the top off until I am sure the drawers will fit properly.

20151126_164338-1_zpssf9e9dg7.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to read a couple times but I follow :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The drawers are nearing completion, the last part I needed to do milling work on was the base of the drawer, I used a 45 degree hart burr on the edges to mill it down to fit into the grooves of the drawer front and sides. In the first photo the milling is done on the bigger drawer, I take the wood off in a few passes going a dit deeper from the edge with every pass, otherwise the wood burns, I also make the bases a bit longer than necessary, if the wood tears out at the back edge it isn't a problem then...and it is easy enough to cut to size afterwards.

20151215_162859-1_zpsjq6whzld.jpg

20151215_164018-1_zpsa0plpjwb.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice! It's fun to watch the progress---

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This afternoon I did the last step on the drawers, pinrouting them together with the mirror base to curve the fronts.

20151217_153431-1_zps6ljojpfc.jpg

Showing the drawers upside down so that you can see the drawer bottoms glued in place.

20151217_162416-1_zpshzb4rhqf.jpg

I am looking forward to seeing how it is going to look after final sanding and finishing, the base still need feet and the uprights for the mirror.

20151217_163408-1_zpsnxymyjzm.jpg

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is an incredible piece!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday I milled the angled tenons on the side rails of Chippendale chairs that I am working on, I am very happy with the results it fits perfectly, the back tenon goes right through the back leg as in the real chair. I made a simple angle to get the side rails at the correct angle in my mill, I had to concentrate very hard to make mirrored side rails as I had already cut the rebate for the chair seat and the top edge molding.

20160315_183217_zpsnpjhaxlq.jpg

20160315_181504_zpszznamus5.jpg

Perfect mirrored side rails :D

20160315_183427-1_zpsjbxyu2ul.jpg

20160315_184539_001-1_zpswlk2zhvp.jpg

20160315_184657-1_zpscku4pgy0.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The seat cushion will sit nicely in those rails.  It looks great!

 

Tamra

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow Elga miniature perfection!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was always interested  in what others did scale wise.  You can only go so far to take full sized jigs and make them work in miniature.  

 

This is a nice tutorial Elga thank you. 

 

Mario 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tamra asked in another thread whether Missy and I move the wood on the milling machine or whether we move the XY table. 

For me it is both depending on what I am making. For moldings and other long pieces of wood I generally slide the wood under the cutter, depending on the hardness of the wood and the profile I am cutting I will start by taking off small bits of wood and lowering the cutter after each cut in certain increments until I have reached the depth that I wanted. Figuring this out is usually trail and error.

For very small pieces of wood and mortise cuts I use the XY table to move the wood within specific measurements, when making multiple pieces like mortises in legs I will complete each step on each leg before moving on to the next cut if another cut is needed on that piece that has different measurements.

I will be teaching both these techniques in my Guild Show class.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am building a few butler trays that will have decorative brass corners, so I decided to use box (finger) joints for joining the wooden corners. I used a vise in my mill with a mdf jig to make it a repeatable process to mill the joints. To save time I clamped two sides together at a time in the jig and milled both at the same time.

image_zps6co6kcyy.jpeg

image_zps7mvajgsz.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
1 1