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Saturday, I was late for the petipointers Zoom call.... my glued up 2x6 became 2x8 and now stacked and glued... Sunday at 9:00 am was promptly standing at the lathe before the heat settles in the shop... Chips were flying... I was wearing a mask, but could have really used a face shield. About 3 hours later after measuring, turning, and remeasuring the diameter is consistent to 7.5" from left to right on the lathe spindle. Testing the prototype wall for vs. the diameter of the turning. The approximate 7.5" diameter will be suspended in a box, after I figure out how to drill a hole in each side of it, and this will become the negative to create the mold to slump the glass. Next to ponder how much the mold is going to shrink in firing... it is easier to make the structure diameter around that curved wall smaller... vs doing another turning. A very smart miniaturist advised that I should slump the glass and then build the wall around the results. I've only had that 2x6x8 for 2 weekends; that is the fastest I've ever brought a board home and turned it. I am happy that I have spent all those hours at a metal lathe and cross slide and I understand how to measure a diameter for consistency from one end to the other. And happy to know that I can even do this on full size wood lathe... my first large turning ever... just to make a mold!

There are many online stores that specialize in selling bone blanks for carving and turning projects. Some popular ones include Woodcraft, Rockler, and Amazon.

That is very sad news. I hope someone will sell fine miniature table saws. I have been sitting on my hands for equipment purchases and have been behaving reasonably well, but there is always something else that you want to add to the private tool pool.

I am working on a brass bed - it requires some thinking without buying a CNC mill. I am to the final 3 borders of my petitpoint rug. It measures 9 .125" x 11.25" on 40 count silk gauze. Lets say it is about 75% complete, and I hope to have it finished this year. I am sadly not attending Guild School this year, so I will likely pretend to build something that week, so I could work on the French build with the slump glass windows or I have a Whitledge Burgess Roombox kit (Bond Street) that I could play with... but the floors have to be done first, and that seems to slow me down... wish they had a saw stop mechanism for my miniature preac table saw. I just watched a YouTube video tonite that they Consumer Product Division in the US is likely going to require safety mechanisms on table saws in the future. The Sawstop patents are going to run out. In the interim, I've been looking at hand saws with new 'eyes' to see if going backward will preserve my fingers. You can still take a finger off with a mini table saw, and I can't figure out how to put a riving accessory on a preac, and that is my most accurate saw for cutting wood floors. I ordered a bunch of moldings for windows for a Lawbre Shadow Cliff shell....the windows are a weird size and the normal windows are too short or too tall... but first things first, have to gather courage to cut micro thin glass... we have had a discussion on that many years ago in the forum, and I just placed my order - so it is taking a while to gather my courage. That's what is on my bench at the present time... Is anyone else working on miniatures?

I don't know if I ever shared some pictures of my 1/4 scale rolltop desk.

From MM, February 20, 2023 People typically fire a low fire slip clay to make slumping molds. Although low fire slip clay is an option, I decided to use porcelain as my largest kiln was purchased to fire miniature porcelain dolls from slip molds, and I feel like my pottery kiln is to small to fire the slump mold, (it is important to not contaminate a kiln that is used to fire porcelain with other types of clay.) I'm shrink wrapping the negative wood turning next and will slab and roll the porcelain clay and let it dry 1-2 weeks so I can fire it to a crisp 2300 degrees fahrenheit. I will take pictures to post as time permits.

Hi, I am Jeffrey. I live on a small island in Florida, very near to where Margaret Fleming’s house use to stand. I started out a bunch of years ago building 1/24-25 scale models but it’s been years since then. In 2000 we returned to the states and I soon got involved in American Revolutionary War re-enactment (I am sure you have heard of the Hessians). After a few years I switched to being a civilian, a Cabinetmaker to be specific. Based on my research of late 18th century Cabinetmakers, I started building ¼ scale furniture (and the tools to cut the joinery). When we walked away from Living History, I continued with full scale woodworking but really wanted to return to miniature woodworking. Thanks to some life changes, I now have the time to get small again. No, I am not in business. The name Schuhbert & Son is kind of an inside (family) joke. My wife’s grandfather was a Master Cabinetmaker. Well, he didn’t have any sons. Years later, after my wife’s dad died, I ended up with a lot of his hand tools. Between the tools and the history, I got into woodworking and soon started making furniture for the historic events and for the house. One day my wife sent her aunt some pictures of what I had recently made. Her aunt replied by saying I was the son her dad never had. I look forward to learning from you all. My interests are miniature room boxes, and furniture of the Chippendale and Shaker periods. Jeffrey Moses Fleming Island, Fl

Welcome Jeffrey from Florida to the Fine Miniatures Forum, and thank you for introducing yourself! Making miniature tools to make miniatures can become a rather fun activity by itself. I haven't made a lot of lifesize projects; I do want to make a Tool chest though, for my lathe tools, most likely Oak case, but drawers will be something easier for handcut joinery. I was reading the Christopher Schwarz from the American Peasant blog post recently, (published Lost Art Press Books) and he was poking at my favorite period of furniture (Chippendale) calling it what I assume, as Royal Excess Furniture, still the post made me smile.... I hope you will share your miniature projects on the Fine Miniatures Forum!

I would like some input on metal turning for drawer handles. The type of drawer pull that I would like to create is pictured below. These are full size handles from Horton Brasses. The plate could be etched and Dr. G at Dr.G’sBrasshole might do these for me, but the teardrop shaped handle would need to be turned and a thin wire could connect the 2. I have a lathe and am moderately proficient with it, but have never turned brass. Do I need different tools or a different tool rest? Any specific chucking advice? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Let’s see if any brass turning experts are on the Forum these days!

Why not use square brass stock? Wouldn't it be easier to drill, and then mount it in a 4 jaw chuck? You can always machine the square stock to xx diameter that fits any collets you own.

Yes, Long Beach CA. That's the one. IMO the inside is more interesting than the outside. It's also (recently) a wedding venue so you can see some pictures of the inside at this link: https://www.weddingwire.com/biz/altar/eb5cee5b64d62f58.html#gallery Makes perfect sense. Brew pub and wedding venue.

I can't believe hat you mention a Masonic Temple as an antique store. I took photos of one on Saturday before Guild School in Belfast, Maine. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masonic_Temple_(Belfast,_Maine) The corner entrance and the doors were the features I loved the most, combined with the top floor and roof details. I thought this building was an inspiration to The Christmas Tree Shoppes, although this was pure speculation on my part, I have not compared the photo with the store in my area. Long Beach could be in many states... is this the correct building? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masonic_Temple_(Long_Beach,_California)#/media/File:Downtown_Core,_Long_Beach,_CA,_USA_-_panoramio_(7).jpg

My current project is a 1/8th scale stagecoach. I'm working on it off and on when I have time. Basically, I have the body for finish up and a few other details before painting. Enjoy !! I'll post some of my miniature furniture in another post. Kurt

Hi, D. Taylor, Thanks for the compliment! I designed and made all the woodwork but I didn't create the fancy trim at the top of the wainscot, windows and door - it's actually called Fancy Trim or Bouquet Fancy Trim and I got it at Manchester Woodworks. You can find the same trim on eBay and Etsy if you google for it, and there are a couple of alternate patterns. If you look at it closely at the first pic you will see on the shorter piece that I cut off the Greek key part with a razor saw (sloow work) and used it for part of the cornice. Be forewarned that it is more like 3/32" thick, not 1/16", and is denser than basswood, so 1) you will have to shim your other pieces to make the depths equal and 2) it will take stain a little differently (will absorb less and less-quickly). Pam

I think I may have just figured it out! First picture is room with indirect LEDs illuminating it. Second is a view of the LEDs from inside the room. I had to turn them off because they are too bright to photograph well when viewed directly (You are seeing a part of my RL Dinning Room in the bottom half). Third is my Southwest Room with 2 lighting ideas for you - the light under the bathroom door (needs a bit of diffusing) and the lighted fish tank (using the 1/8" ribbon LED.

Pam, you are on the right track (no pun intended)! I add LED strip lighting to most of my builds to be able to see into the room. I have some where the lamps and overhead lights are on one circuit and the indirect LEDs are on a separate circuit, so you can see how the room might look in RL, but you can also view the details with enough indirect light. I place the LED strip lights at the front or viewing edge of my room boxes on a 45° angled strip of wood and the light reaches the whole room very well. LED strips usually run in a series of 3, so I put enough sets of 3s to cover the width of the room. I mostly use the 3014 LEDs and buy them on a reel and solder the connection wires to one end of the run. The tape they are on is about 1/4" wide. The only time I have ever had a problem with the indirect lights being seen is when there is a mirror in the room. I usually purchase the reels from Carl Sahlberg @ cr2s.com. Tim Kraft is another source @ lumenationsbymrk.net. Both sell these with the series of 3 (or multiples thereof) already cut and with the connection wires attached. Incidentally, both of these gentlemen are excellent teachers and very helpful with your project! The LED ribbon lights run in a series of 2 and the tape is 1/8" wide, and are very bright. I've used this smaller LEDs to light up a fish tank that is on a bookshelf. If I'm understanding your garden question, and your garden is seen through the windows, I have used a set of 3 LEDs at the top of the outside of the window to illuminate the garden and to look like sunlight is coming through the window. There again, you might put these on a different circuit. I have also used LEDs behind a false door the was slightly ajar, although I think I need to use a piece of semi-opaque plexiglass to diffuse the light because it is a bit too bright. I've also heard of painting an LED with a neutral colored acrylic paint to dim it. I've never tried to myself, but since they don't generate heat ... I'll have to check with Tim or Carl on this before I do it! I took the same Frank Crescente class as Tamra, but did my lights differently. I did not use the recessed overhead lights. I used a center chandelier and wall sconces as well as the indirect LEDs as described above. I tried to attach a couple of pictures but my files are too big, 1003.52kB as opposed to the 1000kB allowed. Tamra, or anyone, any suggestions? Welcome to the Forum and I hope I haven't inundated you with info! Martha

Just catching up on my Forum reading. I have been enjoying this build vicariously as well! You may be the only person on the planet planning curved ovals of glass, but there are at least 2 of us thinking about it with you and cheering you on! If the cookie cutter idea doesn't work, could you sandwich the rectangular, but curved piece between the inner and outer wall? I still have a bit more to add to furnish my current build or should I say rebuild. I have gutted and restructured a room box that suffered major sun damage over the span of 30 years, but there may be interest in the process. Hi, Chris! I figured it was you.