• Announcements

    • purplejuliana

      Micro-Mark Discount code for IGMA   01/29/2017

      Great News for miniature artists!!!! In support of IGMA and the world of fine miniatures,  Micro-Mark the small tool specialists, have offered IGMA a 10% discount on all their purchases.  Buyer gets 10% off all purchases and in support of the Guild Micro-Mark will donate 5% of your purchased price to IGMA Be sure to enter Promo code IGMASAVE16 www.micromark.com Can be used on sale merchandise, but cannot be combined with another offer.  For example if an item is in the close-out section on the Micromark website, the discount will apply. If they discount some items in an email (a special promotion) the 10% will not be able to be combined with that offer.  Time to go shopping!!!      

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. 1:12 Scale Shetland Pony

    Hi GiseleH - Thanks so much. The armature is made of pipe cleaners. The hooves and eyes made of polymer clay. Will update the photos soon with the polymer clay eyes.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Last week
  5. Earlier
  6. 1:12 Scale Shetland Pony

    He looks great, cannot wait to see him with ears and tail. How did you handle the armature?
  7. 1:12 Scale Shetland Pony

    Progress photos.
  8. Jack O Lantern with Flicker Light

    Thank you WeekendMiniaturist. When I was very young I discovered Arts (and Crafts) - particularly the hobby of miniatures. Have been practicing a LOT of different medias for about 50 years now.
  9. 1:12 Scale Shetland Pony

    Working on a 1/12 scale Shetland Pony. Will post progress photos. Equine miniatures are a specialty but this is the first one I've done 100% from scratch and felted. Having a lot of fun with him. I have visions of paring him with a porcelain child doll. He is 3 inches at the shoulder.
  10. Wm. R. Robertson's TED talk is online

    That was very interesting Bill. I especially liked seeing the Architect's workshop, even though I've seen photos in the past. Thanks for sharing it.
  11. Table Saw Options

    I just checked mine. Dang it. That explains a lot. But your blog is wonderful and very helpful. I can see I am going to have my work cut out for me.
  12. Table Saw Options

    I know I am replying to an older post from 2015. But while rereading this thread I noticed the issues above. This can indeed be an issue with the tilt arbor Microlux saw and also with the tilt arbor Proxxon saw. Both of those saws are made in the same factory in Japan and built using most of the same parts. A few years back I purchased a used Proxxon saw from craigslist and it had cutting problems. So I got out my measuring tools and discovered that the saw blade was not parallel to the miter slots in the table top which of course also meant parallel issues to the fence. As I quickly discovered there was not way to adjust the alignment of the arbor mounts that hold the blade in position. Of course I could not return a used table saw so I started taking things apart and made it adjustable While I was doing that I took the time to document the process and post it on my blog. So even if you have one of these defective tilt arbor saws that came out of the factory being misaligned and it is sitting on a shelf in your workshop, don't despair, there is still some hope for it. Link to the fix: https://karincorbin.blogspot.com/2009/07/proxxon-table-saw-adjustment.html
  13. Aging a glass window

    I age my blacksmith shop windows with real strong coffee or tea wash. Lay the window down flat and wash on around edges, let dry and apply again until you get the desired finish. You can dab in the middle lightly while still wet. Then use an artist flat fixative spray to hold it all in place. The fixative spray does not show, it is used on charcoal and such drawings to hold all in place. Be sure to get artist fixative not flat acrylic spray. You can also use India ink in a very light wash (this is more permanent and hard to remove) I also use sidewalk (poster) chalk. Wet a soft artist brush and rub it on the chalk to form a puddle on the chalk of the color you want. This can be wiped off so use fixative here too.
  14. Aging a glass window

    http://www.thomasopenhouse.com/tips_howto.html I am sure you are aware of these articles, but for other forum members, here is an index from Pat Thomas... My gut instinct would have me leaving the window(s) outside and then mother nature can contribute to the project... Steam and a very fine mist (from the kitchen) of some kind of oil + dirt and a fan, may also help speed up the process.... (outdoors of course!) Now where is my mortar and pestle so I can ground up dirt?
  15. Aging a glass window

    One suggestion that may help: make a “dirty” wash by taking a small amount of white glue, like Elmer’s, and mix with acrylic paint like black and burnt sienna . You can dilute the paint with water to get the shade you want, then mix it with the glue. Paint this on your window and let dry. It can be rubbed with a cloth if you want to have a clean area like in the middle of the pane. Finely sifted hobby “dirt” like the kind you find in train stores, or cigarette ashes can be used in window corners depending on the look you want. You could experiment by painting a thin layer of the mixture on a scrap piece of glass at first.
  16. Lathe

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=43104&cat=1,330,50260 This page has two photos with the Taig set up for wood tool rest and cross -slide. Yes, MM comments definitely helps clarify this forum thread-->I have used the Taig's cross slide with a tool bit for wood, and then after I have the proper dimensions turned on the spindle, I switch to the tool rest and lathe chisels and graver's to create the details. And while the rest of the Woodworking and Metals world would know about using each kind of lathe, miniaturists switch between the two types of turning with ease... collets for my jet mini lathe are not as easily available as collets for the Sherline and Taig lathes, metal lathes have collets as standard accessories, except for the BEALL collets, I haven't seen a lot of collet options for benchtop woodworking lathe, but admittedly I'm not looking for them as I am quite happy with the Taig. If you are using instructions that are written in the US system of measurements, using a SAE measurement lathe is easier. It was hard enough for me to learn to think in 10th, 100ths, and 1000s of an inch, converting it to mm would be truly not fun for my old brain. The calibration wheels on a metal lathe, are very helpful. The Unimat lathes are also metric, not just the calibration, but everything else is metric... getting a 4mm square bar to replace your chuck key for a 4 jaw chuck - was NOT a quick run to the hardware store - I had to mail order it.
  17. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    Thank you for sharing your story about metal working in art school. I would have been proud of this as a first piece, and you made five of them!
  18. Aging a glass window

    I need some suggestions please for "aging" a "leaded" glass window (glass soldered together with copper foil). I have already aged the lead solder and I need to dirty up the glass. I don't want it grimy, but I don't want it to be pristine and clean, either. It's going on an old but not derelict building.
  19. Lathe

    In miniature, both wood and metal can generally be turned using either metal-turning techniques (cross slide & tool post) or wood-turning techniques (hand-held cutter), or a combination of the two. Both the Taig and the Sherline can be used either way, with the proper "attachments". Be advised that while the Proxxon tools are excellent, they are calibrated in millimeters. This might or might not be an issue for you.
  20. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    Is this technique the same as electroplating?
  21. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    Electroforming copper takes some time. I had to take the spouts out of the tank and file off the bumpy bits every so often to build up a smooth and heavier surface. There is plenty of information about how to do it online if anyone wants to research it.
  22. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    Catherine this is a beautiful first piece! This past year, I borrowed most of the jewelry technique books from the library and I do not recall the subject of Electrodeposition. Thank you Catherine & Bill for sharing the concept of this technique with the Forum.
  23. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    Dearing and Tracy bought some of my miniatues in the late 1980s. I don't know what happened to them. I would not blush at that work. I tried the electrodeposition for making spouts on some o my first tin ware. Years ago I was thinking of building very high detail WWI airplanes. I found this series of booklets with how to do suggestions printed in 1981. I found about electrodeposition. I tried using an electric train transformer and used copper using a penny as an anode. They gave a formula of wax for the molding. 1 part paraffin wax, 2 parts bees wax and 2 parts of powdered graphite. Melt the waxes together and stir in the graphite. My problem was that I did not built up thick enough spouts the withstand handling. Another thing that appeared in this book was the use of Fimo. They were also using photo etch for making machine gun barrel jackets. I learned a lot from these books.
  24. For My First Assignment in a Metals Class in Art School

    I love first projects, I see it as the start of a journey. So many people are afraid to start working in a medium or scale that they don't know. How are you ever going to discover whether you like and have the talent for working with something if you don't try it? Never blush over first projects, they started a journey, we learned from it and did better the next time and the third time until it became easy to work with our chosen medium as we got to know how it responds to our efforts, techniques and tools. Thanks for sharing Catherine, it is a beautiful little teapot and deserves a special place in your yourney as a metalsmith.
  25. This was the first project I made in a metals class in art school. The assignment was to fabricate something in metal. Using forming and silver soldering techniques. I chose to make a 1: 12 scale teapot on a stand. The stand was made of sterling silver square wire because I needed that gauge and sterling was all I had. The flower cup holder (for the burner) was cut out of a dapped piece of sterling with a jewelers saw. When finished, the stand was oxidized to make it look like wrought iron. The body of the teapot is brass and was made of two dapped pieces soldered together. I wanted a tapered hollow spout and the only way I knew to make it at that time was to electroform it. I made a wax interior shape and painted a conductor on it. Then literally grew copper over the wax. Once I had enough copper built up on the wax, I was able to melt out the wax and solder the spout on the brass pot. The teapot had to be gold plated. The burner was made out of telescoping tubes and sheet brass and gold plated. The wood knob and handle are ebony. More 40 years later this first project makes me blush/cringe a bit. I made five of these pieces. Dearing and Tracy (miniature dealers from the 1970's) sold all the other ones for me. I have often wondered what happened to Dearing & Tracey. They had beautiful miniatures at the time.
  26. Lathe

    If you do not already know which is which kind of the lathe, A metal lathe uses a cross slide and a tool bit inserted in a tool post. A wood lathe uses a tool rest and a hand held cutting tools, or lathe chisels. At the present I would explain that the difference between lathe chisels, chisels and carving tools is the angle of cutting surfaces. Normal "chisels" are flat, lathe chisels and carving tools are made of various flat and round tool steel. I did not look up these definitions, so perhaps more seasoned miniaturists will add to the conversation. I'm not that far ahead of you - as my quest began in earnest in 2015. Jewelers Gravers, used for engraving metal, can also be used as miniature lathe chisels. In the unimat forum, one of the members indicated I should learn to sharpen before I got to use a lathe; it was excellent advice, but most of us learn to use a lathe first, and then we learn to sharpen when the tools get dull - and unless you have family member that is great at sharpening, this is the time to find a good community resource!
  27. Lathe

    Thank you to everyone who responded! I am a newbie with all the power tools so the detailed info is greatly appreciated!
  28. Anne Norwood

    Thank you, as of right now I do not have a website but I will post some pictures soon.
  29. Lathe

    I highly recommend a Sherline lathe. Made in America, good quality, many different models and accessories to choose from. Good company support. You can turn both wood and metal. Don't buy a cheap one because you will just have to turn around and get a better one later and you will be happier with the reaults.
  1. Load more activity